Thursday, December 10, 2009

Mauldin Pond Service

Most pond leaks are nothing more than low edges.

How do you find a low edge in a pond?

1. Most low edges are easily found by running a series of tests to isolate the problem area. This can be done by turning off the pump and filling all ponds to their orginal levels. (However, be sure to detoxify any water being added with a declorinator and be sure add it slowly so that you do not shock your fish with the new water temperatures.)

2. Mark the level in your pond after filling. Then wait at least 48 hours without rain to remark the water level and record the changes. If the pond has lost water continue to keep the pump off and let the water level stabilize to find the level of water that is leaking.

3. If the pond is not loosing water then it may be a waterfall area or a stream. Often times water will become stacked up on waterfalls due to debris and dead foliage or leaves during the winter. Visually begin to check all the edges around the waterfall to insure no loss of water. If you find a low area raise the liner and build it up with soil behind the liner to help stabilize the area.

4. Call a professional pond service company if you can not find it yourself. Many times these tests take too much time and patience. This client featured in the photo above of Mauldin SC called Platinum Ponds, a pond builder which specializes in pond service to find their pond leak.

If you need help, call Platinum Ponds at (864)430-4700


Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Winter Pond Service

Preparing your Upstate ponds for winter with a little pond maintenance is simple if you have all the facts. Often in Greenville SC with our pond service we find clients are confused about having koi fish outdoors in the winter. So let us debunk a few myths that surround your typical backyard koi pond.

1. Toxic gases kill pond fish not ice.

Due to the earth’s warmth backyard ponds can only physically freeze to 7-8 inches thick. It is the sealing nature of the ice which does not allow the toxic gas to escape from the pond that is harmful. Rest assured your cold blood friends will sleep comfortably and awaken when temperatures warm if a small hole is kept in the ice through the winter.

2. Turning off your pond pump for the winter is not safe.

Most pond owners that have waterfalls may be tempted to turn it off to save power for the winter. Although you may save some power you also risk losing your fish. Waterfalls are a natural way to keep oxygen in the pond as well as hole in the ice that may form during freezing temperatures.

3. Over feeding your fish for winter can mean more than indigestion.

The rule of thumb for backyard ponds is to stop feeding your fish when the water temperature reaches 55 degrees. Unlike bears, there is no need to plump up your fish friends before they begin their hibernation for winter under the ice. When fish go into hibernation so do their digestive tracts. If food remains undigested it can harm the fish or shorten its life.

The main killers of pond fish in the winter is stress and predators. Avoid these and your fish will live long happy lives.


For pond service or questions call Richard @ (864) 430-4700 or visit

Monday, December 7, 2009

Indoor Pond in Greenville

We are pleased to announce one of our newest Platinum Members, Danny, owner of the Nail Spa on Haywood Rd in Greenville (next to Underwood Nursery and Babies R Us).

Platinum Ponds has been asked on several occasions to give facelifts to indoor ponds.

This pond already had a bronze fountain but, need silk plantings, color, and a pond filter system.

Platinum Ponds will be adding the Nail Spa to it 365 Day Pond tour soon as the Giant Japanese Koi arrive. Stay tuned!

Natural Pond Builder Needed


People are what make ponds complicated.

A well designed pond with a few simple components can make this eyesore disappear.

Most people get most of their pond ideas through word of mouth or from a local garden center. Inevitably they end up frustrated or with a pond that leaks or makes the neighbors cringe as they look over the fence.


This pond in Anderson South Carolina was converted into a wetland filtration system. The homeowner can now remove the unsightly man-made components behind the water feature.
The client hired Platinum Ponds as their pond builder to remedy their own pond construction dilemma.




Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Waterfalls for Pond in Hendersonville



Need your pond filled?

Platinum Ponds helps build a beautiful display pond for Cason Builder Supply in 6 hours while teaching contractors how build ponds right.

Unfortunately, it was taking to long to fill. So we called in the big guns from the Fire department.

It can take over an hour to fill a average sized pond with a garden hose. If the pond leaks of course it will taken even longer.

With a fire truck it only takes 3 minutes.

Platinum Ponds is a pond builder serving Hendersonville North Carolina.

For more info visit http://www.platinumponds.com/

or call (864)430-4700



Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Skimmer Pond Leak in Simpsonville South Carolina


Is you pond leaking? Is your pond skimmer older than 5 years? It may be the biggest hole in your pond that is leaking...your skimmer.

How do you fix a skimmer face plate which has lost its screws?

Thankfully, fixing a skimmer and the screws is not a large expense. But it will require a lot of patience and a few key tools.

Skimmers spend most of their lives three quarters submerged under water soaking its hardware. It is believed that certain earlier versions of skimmers which used aluminum screws will often fall apart around year 4-6 of the skimmer. Some even believe it is due to underwater lights that are none functioning but still conducting current which accelerated that corrosion process of the aluminum.

This can be easily fixed by removing the old screws and adding brass hardware. First you will need a pair of vice grips to grab the aluminum screws from the inside of the skimmer. This is an important step, as if the screw becomes stuck it will need to be drilled out. Secondly, you will need to remove the plastic face plate and thoroughly clean the skimmer face and liner. The next step is the same as installing a skimmer only now use brass screws, washers and nuts with new silicone to squeeze the faceplate to skimmer creating a gasket.

Not up to this? Platinum Ponds emergency pond service would be happy to help. Give us a call at (864) 430-4700 or visit our website http://www.platinumponds.com/

Monday, November 16, 2009

Taylors Pond turned into Water Garden

Often ponds are dug and not finished. This can be due to the lack of weekends needs to complete or simply our busy schedules that don't allow you to focus on the task at hand.

This Taylors resident in South Carolina found Platinum Ponds had the answer to the hole they dug themselves into. They took the existing hole dug and created a beautiful water garden in just two days.

This client was concerned about installing a koi filter or a pond filter that would be the right size for their pond. They also need to incorporate a seating area and walkway to the bedroom doors. This was all accomplished using the techniques that Platinum Ponds is known for across the Upstate of South Carolina.

Platinum Ponds services Asheville, Greenville, Columbia, Seneca & Charlotte. Contact us today at (864)430-4700 or visit our website www.PlatinumPonds.com

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Fall Pond Service in Landrum


Pond service is a relatively new concept for most in people in South Carolina. Often ponds are thought as eyes sores for their property because of the numerous "ponds" they have seen that are sagnate or green. But nothing could be farther from the truth.


Ponds have evolved into aquatic paradises that have beautiful waterfalls and colorful fish with water that is clear as drinking water. Much like a swimming pool service, Platinum Ponds services ponds in Landrum SC and the surrounding Upstate area teaching homeowers how to balance their ecosystem and make them low maintenance.


Most pond owners today are inherting ponds when they purchase their new home but, do not the correct or enough information to care for these aquatic systems. It is for this reason Platinum Ponds seeks to help pond owners learn, care and sustain natural habitats in their backyards.


For more information about the services Platinum Ponds provides visit http://www.PlatinumPonds.com/

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Pond Service for Greenville


Would You Like More Time To Sit Back And Enjoy Your Pond?

Do you want a completely maintenance free pond? Do you need pond service in Hendersonville or Asheville? Are you tired of emptying the skimmer basket or unclogging your pump? Do you worry about your fish? Would you find piece of mind knowing that all this was taken care of by a professionally trained pond expert?
Platinum Ponds offers years of experience in the design, installation, and service of ponds and water features. Our technicians are trained to do all of the work so you can sit back, relax, and enjoy!

We have been getting phone calls from our clients who want to enjoy the stress-reducing benefits of their water garden pond, but want us to do all the work! Our services have been expanded to meet the demand for a maintenance-free pond. We now offer bi-monthly, monthly and quarterly services for your convenience. Each service plan is tailored to the individual needs of your water feature. Our team is skilled in bringing your existing water feature back to life!

Many of our clients have already taken advantage of our Monthly Plan. This plan is excellent for the water garden owner who needs a little help keeping their pond clear and beautiful. Our new Platinum Plan is tailored for the busy pond owner who wants to enjoy all the relaxing benefits of the pond, while we do all the dirty work. This plan includes visits twice a month to allow you to relax and be assured that professionals are taking care of the rest.
We are so excited to introduce this new plan that offering a limited time bonus for the first 10 clients to sign up.

http://www.platinumponds.com/service-programs.html

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

How To Install Pond Netting

Pond netting is the only option for pond owners who do not have skimmer boxes to remove leaves.

The dilemia for most is whether to have a clean pond free of leaves or to have your pond view screened.

The trade off is hard to justify for the average pond enthusiast who enjoys their fish on a daily basis. But for those who want to save some time cleaning come spring it is a good choice.

Although leaves will not harm the pond or fish, they can be labor intensive to remove in the spring. If you have less than 3 trees in the area more than likely you would not be considering netting your pond. But, if you have a woods in your yard or your neighbor loves trees and does not rake very often, you may want to consider covering your pond with a net.

There are numerous ways to net a pond. Most horizontal nets or floating nets collect leaves are not the best choice, but often the least expensive. In most instances that I have seen leaves weigh down the nets and become hazardous to the fish which can snag their fins on the netting. Also, floating nets usually collect leaves as they are so light weight they tend to snag the leaves. These floating nets provide little protection from predators are they can penetrate the netting killing most fish.

The best way, yet still affordable, is to create a skelton dome as seen in the above picture. This dome is anchored by slipping the tubing over rebar stakes using the tension of the bent pole to hold it in place.

The cover you use is really up to you. My personal favorite is a woven material that is similiar to shade cloth but, comes as a tarp shape with grommets.

This material can stand up to the weather, be used year after year, and lets the wind pass through it for added structure & view ability. The best place that I have found to purchase this cloth is at Northern Equipment. And it can be ordered online.

My second choice material would be similar in durability but, with larger holes. The tree growers and stadiums use a polyethelene netting which is made to keep birds away. The smallest size available is .75 inches and would keep most leaves. The main brand of netting available is Bird-x.
The later comes in larger sizes and may be the best choice for larger ponds.

If you are interested in having a net designed and installed for you visit www.PlatinumPonds.com/service.html

Hendersonville Pond Service


Pond pumps are dirty words for some clients. More and more we are beginning to see the market saturated with Chinese pumps with one year warranties.

When you buy a car they usually give you a 36,000 mile warranty. Why? Because after much testing, the car manufacturer knows that failures will begin after 36k.

Much like cars, pumps are the engines of a 24/7 working ecosystem. The pumps will receive wear and tear as they continue to run day after day.

But how long should a pump last?

Good question. It depends are several factors such as head heights, pipe length and optimal running of the pump, known as it's sweet spot.

But who knows how to calculate all of these factors? Very few. What is a homeowner to do? The best protection a homeowner has today with pumps is his warranty. Manufacturers are now beginning to compete with warranties, much like the car industry. A good warranty for a bearing driven pump (which has friction) is two years. A great warranty for a magnetic pump (no friction) is 3 years.

Now dealers are getting really slick when it comes to these warranties. Some require date of purchase and a receipt. So if you have your feature installed by a "pro" be sure to ask for the receipt. Other wise make sure your pump has a date stamped on it so that you may return it to your manufacturer.

In the picture above this client's"pro" in Hendersonville NC used only one year warranty pumps and one was missing its date codes. There 5 pumps retail at over 4k. So choose carefully or pay twice as much.

Magically Clear Ponds


Platinum Magic is a revolutionary new type of flocculant, that quickly clears pond water. Unlike traditional clarifiers, it does not bind to gill tissue where it could harm fish. Instead of binding particals together with a glue-like action, it works like a magnet to attract particals to the bottom where they can be broken down. By working in this way, its effects are longer lasting.


Application: One teaspoon per 1000 gallons of pond water. Sprinkle Platinum Magic near pumps or stream areas to ensure proper distribution. Platinum Magic works best when spread over a large area. Use Platinum Magic whenever your water is turbid. You may safely quadruple the application if extreme cloudiness remains.

Platinum Magic works best with Platinum Sludge Remover, Platinum Koi Food, Platinum Clarifier, Platinum De-Clor, Platinum Cleaner and Platinum Scrubber.

To order Platinum Magic for $29.99 call Platinum Ponds at (864) 430-4700 or visit http://www.platinumponds.com/


Thursday, February 5, 2009

2009 Home and Garden Show


Platinum Ponds is proud to participate in the 2009 Home and Garden Show of Greenville South Carolina. We will be on hand to answer to water feature questions in booth 172.

Download Floor Plan Map

Download a List of the Exhibitors

If you're building, buying, remodeling, landscaping or decorating a home, you'll find just what you're looking for at the 48th Annual Southern Home & Garden Show sponsored by BI-LO.
Produced by the Home Builders Association of Greenville since 1960, the Southern Home & Garden Show has grown to become the largest show of its kind in South Carolina and among the largest in the Southeast. This annual event for consumers is held the first full weekend (Thursday- Sunday) in March at the Carolina First Center (formerly Palmetto Expo Center). Attendee research shows that 93% of Southern Home & Garden Show visitors are homeowners, and 58% of them have plans to build, buy or remodel a home within the next 12 months, making this show a tremendous marketing tool for builders, remodelers and those with products and services for homeowners and potential homeowners.

Show Times:
March 5 (Thurs). . . . . . .4 - 9 pm
March 6 (Fri). . . . . . . . .Noon - 9 pm
March 7 (Sat). . . . . . . . 10 am - 9 pm
March 8 (Sun). . . . . . . .1 pm - 6 pm

Admission:Adults $7 * Seniors (55+) & Students $5 * Children 5 and Under Free
Buy tickets in advance at any BI-LO supermarket beginning Feb. 4 and receive $1 off the admission price.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Top Remodeling Expo Questions

We have always enjoyed meeting pond hobbiests at trade shows. No matter what size their pond nor how high tech their systems they always passionately tell their stories of enjoyment and fish.

It is amazing how little people need to have a balanced ecosystem in your pond. From plastic containers, drums, liners, concrete, fiberglass, jugs...ponds have been made from just about everything folks can get their hands on.


Unfortunately, the more complex the system with more pieces more problems can occur. So we would like to answer some your top trade show questions in an effort for more pond hobbiest to be successful.

Do you have to bring your fish inside for the winter?

How deep does a pond need to be?

Is using a UV light the best way to keep my pond clear?

How do I keep predators from eating all my fish?

How do you control algae in a pond?

Ponds have gone wrong for many reasons. The biggest reason is algae. Ponds that are not completely balanced will experienced excess algae growth. Algae itself will not harm anything, but can become unsightly. The question is how much is too unsightly.

Algae is a plant life which thrives on excess nutrients in the body of water. The best method of reducing algae is prevention of excess nutrients.

How do you prevent excess nutrients? It is always a good idea to start with a "clean slate" by cleaning out your pond out in early spring. Like nature flushing it's streams with the melting ice you will reduce the nutrient load signifcantly by cleaning your pond. It is for this reason we will not offer a monthly service contract to anyone who has not had their pond cleaned out.

Aquatic plants are the next best thing to a pond clean out. Plants not only complete the nitrogen cycle but, also remove toxins from your pond water. But, if not pruned by spring these same dormate plants can add nutrients when they begin to rot. So it always a great idea to prune your aquatic plants before your water temps get above 55 degrees F. See also our post called Basic Ecosystem Pond Care.

How do you find a leak?

Most of the time a leak in a pond with a liner is simply a low edge of the pond which can be solved in few seconds. To find out how read our post troubleshooting leaks.

Why Rainwater Harvesting?

The possiblities of harvesting rainwater for waterfalls and fountains is the best idea yet.
See our post on Rainwater Harvesting.

Do ponds create liability and HOA issues?

Will having a pond decrease the value of my home?

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Greenville Remodeling Expo

Greenville Remodeling Expo

Platinum Ponds announces the annual Greenville Remodeling Expo coming January 30 through February 1, 2009 in the Conference Hall (formerly Hall A) at the Carolina First Center.

Visit countless home related experts as they give you ideas and knowledge to protect your most important investment, your home.

Richard, the Upstate Pond Doctor, will be on hand with his favorite Koi Fish to answer all your water feature, pond, and water garden questions.

The show will begin on Friday from 2pm-8pm and continue Saturday 10am-8pm & Sunday 11am-5pm. Cost is $5 for Adults. Children 18 and under are FREE.

For more infomation about Platinum Ponds - click here.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Fall and Winter Pond Maintenance in Landrum


In the fall, water is almost always very clear because of the cooler temperatures and the full, lush plants. Enjoy the good water quality! Here are some things that you can do to keep your water garden looking good. Note: Several of the steps do not apply to Pondless® Waterfall systems.

There may be an increasing numbers of yellow leaves this time of year, so prune them off all of your plants. Your lilies – tropical and hardy – should still be going strong, at least until the first heavy frost.

Stop fertilizing when the weather becomes cooler. This lets the plants know the season is coming to an end.

When the water temperature is around 55 F° (10° C), stop feeding your fish. Continuing to feed them could cause health problems or death for them, since their digestive systems are beginning to slow down for the winter.

As leaves falls from nearby trees, you’ll probably have to empty the debris net every day to keep up with the influx of leaves. Some of them will undoubtedly sink to the bottom, try to remove as many as you can, however a few left in the pond will give insects and frogs a place to over winter.

If you leave too much organic matter in your pond, the water may turn brown. If this happens, remove the excess debris and add activated carbon to clear the water.

As it gets colder, your aquatic plants will have all but died for the season. Now you can cut back the dead plant material and remove the tropicals. Cut back the cattails above the water level, or better yet, leave them up to see how magnificent they look in the winter.

If you’re fortunate enough to be where it stays warm all year round, you’re set for the winter.
If you live up north, where the surface of the pond freezes, you’ll need to prepare for winter by deciding whether you want to keep your pond running or shut it down.

To shut your pond down, first unplug your pump and pull it out of the water. The pump should be stored in a frost-free location, submerged in a bucket of water to keep the seals from drying.

If you have fish, a small re-circulating pump that bubbles at the water surface is necessary to oxygenate the water. In all but extremely low temperatures, the bubbling of the pump will also keep a hole open in the ice to allow for a gas exchange, keeping your fish alive. It is not necessary to oxygenate the water or keep a hole open in the ice if you don’t have fish.

If your area experiences long periods of extremely cold weather, you may consider adding a floating de-icer. Controlled by a thermostat, the unit only runs when the water temperature is at or below freezing, heats the water to just above that, and then shuts off again. Ask your installer or local supplier for products to help your pond during the winter.

If you use a floating de-icer, place it away from the bubbler. The movement of the water can move the heated water away from the de-icer, making it run more than necessary.

You can also choose to keep the waterfall running. This will require a little babysitting to make sure an ice dam does not form which could cause water to run out of the Pondless® Waterfall/ Pond basin. You will also still need to replace water loss so the pump can continue to function properly (see “The Water Level” above). This extra effort during the winter will reward you with the most beautiful ice formations and patterns around the falls and streambeds.

One of the nice features of the Signature Series™ Skimmer is the ability to remove the debris basket in the winter to provide a larger opening for water to reach the pump.

The most important thing is to have fun with your water feature all year long. Keep some of these key maintenance issues in mind, and it will be smooth sailing. In the meantime, stay warm!

Maintaining Your Water Feature



Now that you’ve decided to dive into the world of water gardening, you’re probably wondering exactly what you need to do to maintain you’re new aquatic beauty, and keep it looking good.

There is a lot of conflicting information out there about the dos and don’t of water garden maintenance so your head may be spinning, wondering which steps are necessary and which ones aren’t. The whole point of installing your pond in the first place was to reduce the stress in your life, not add it to.

Well, allow us to share a little bit of water gardening knowledge with you … the key to a low maintenance water garden is to keep your new ecosystem in balance! Read on and learn how to water garden the low maintenance way. So regardless of which type of water feature you own, we’ll tell you the best way to maintain it with the least amount of work on your part!

Different Pond Types
Ecosystem Ponds
The key to keeping an all-natural water garden in check is general ecosystem maintenance. The five elements of your ecosystem all need to be balanced in order to insure that everything is working smoothly. They are:

Mechanical and Biological Filters
Pumps and Plumbing
Rocks and Gravel
Aquatic Plants
Fish

These elements must all be present in order for the system to really work. Once your pond is balanced, it’s not hard to see why maintaining a well-balanced ecosystem is easy. With the exception of some seasonal maintenance, all you really need to worry about is tossing a little beneficial bacteria into your pond and cleaning out your skimmer net once every week or two.

Preformed and Container Water Gardens
When it comes to preformed and container gardens, maintenance is a little different. There are a few products that can be used to clean up your pond when non-algae problems continue. Remember, the smaller the system, the harder it is to achieve balance, so a more repeated dosage of beneficial bacteria may be necessary.

Fresh Start (dechlorinator) removes chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals rendering the water fish safe.

Nature Clear (bacteria) works the same way as AquaClearer™ and should be added regularly.

Clear Pond (flocculant) for clumping single-celled algae together so it falls to the bottom thereby clearing the water.

Pond Sludge Buster (enzyme) for quick debris breakdown.

Anti-foam or Foam Away™ to eliminate excessive foam build-up in water features.

Preformed ponds and container gardens also differ from liner ponds in the fact that leaks cannot be fixed. Preformed ponds and barrel liners are impossible to fix if cracked and must be replaced. Evaporation is also more common and much more noticeable because of the small amount of space. You can, however, follow the same steps when refilling them as you do a natural liner pond. Lastly, over-doing plants and lowering the fish load in your preformed pond or container water garden will help balance the system better!

Pondless® Waterfall
One of the greatest features of the Pondless® Waterfall Filter is that there is very little maintenance. The system can be run 24 hours a day or can be turned off and on when desired. Don’t forget to periodically check that there is enough water in the Pondless® Waterfall basin to properly operate the waterfalls. When you hear the pump “gurgling” or sucking air, you know it is time to add water.

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Rainwater Harvesting Asheville

WHY RAINWATER HARVEST?
  • The earth is known as the Blue Planet for a reason, it's no surprise that water is a dominant part of our everyday lives. The worlds current challenge is to improve the planet's water quality and then maintain clean and healthy water that supports all life forms in our diverse environment.

CAPTURING AND REUSING RAINWATER MAKES DOLLARS AND "SENSE"

  1. Reduce water bills including city storm sewer charges

  2. Alleviate demand on municipal systems

  3. Avoid strict watering schedules

BETTER FOR YOUR LANDSCAPE THAN MUNICIPALLY TREATED WATER

  1. Rainwater is extremely rich in nutrients

  2. Using rainwater to irrigate will reduce fertilizer use

  3. No chemicals have been added to rainwater
THE RAINXCHANGE™ SYSTEM IS REVOLUTIONARY!

The Aquascape RainXchange™ System is a revolutionary design that combines a recirculating decorative water feature with a sub-surface rainwater harvest storage system.

Clean, Filtered Water Storage - While you enjoy the benefits of a decorative water feature, the RainXchange™ System filters the stored water to prevent stagnation and growth of unhealthy bacteria. The RainXchange™ System reveals only a beautiful water feature that integrates easily into existing landscape. Locating and storing the water underground maintains the integrity and beauty of your home and landscape.

Wildlife Habitat - Because the water stored in the RainXchange™ System is constantly moving and being aerated, it becomes a sanctuary for wildlife.

Water Feature Lifestyle - Enhanced landscaping improves property value and water features provide soothing sights and sounds that help you relax and de-stress in today’s busy world.

Environmental Conservation - Capturing rainwater to operate the water feature creates true self-sustainability, drastically reducing the need for chemically-treated traditional water sources.

For brochures about Rainwater Harvesting visit Platinum Ponds under fountains and pondless waterfalls.

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Beneficial Bacteria Explained

Platinum Ponds has worked with Pond Diggers on several projects including Dr. Erik Johnson DVM (the Koi Vet) and Savannah's PGA Golf Course. For more information visit Platinum Ponds.

5 Steps to Building a Turtle Pond


Platinum Ponds has worked with Pond Diggers on several projects including Dr. Erik Johnson DVM (the Koi Vet) and Savannah's PGA Golf Course. For more information visit Platinum Ponds.

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Upstate Women's Show features Platinum Ponds

Platinum Ponds will debut the Upstate's Longest Free Pond Tour at the Women's Show.

Discover hidden paradises here in the Upstate at your own leisure 365 days a year. Visit countless fountains, streams, and water gardens on our self guided tour. Download directions, photos, and descriptions at Free Pond Tour.com.

In addition, Richard, the Upstate Pond Doctor will be on hand at booths 411, 413, 415, & 417 to answer all your water feature questions.

Click here for a floor plan.

Click here for a list of exhibitors.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Greenville News features Platinum Ponds


July 19, 2008

By Stacie Nichols
STAFF WRITER

The famous author Henry David Thoreau went into the woods to learn all that nature had to teach him.

Today, those who want to appreciate nature sometimes bring nature into their world.
Richard Panten, owner of Platinum Ponds in Greenville, helps make an at-home oasis a reality for clients who live in the city.

Why have backyard ponds become so popular?

“If you want an instant vacation every time you step out to your back yard — and I hear this time and time again from my clients — rather than just a bunch of Polaroids that you come home with from your vacation, this thing is something that’s in your yard. It saves you gas. It is enjoyed by more than just the two people who went on vacation, and it creates a little bit of paradise in your back yard,” Panten said.

Jen with her husband, Gene, loves the learning opportunities her two backyard ponds provide for her three children.

“They get out, and they love to watch the fish. We’ve had a turtle move in, and we have five bullfrogs,” Morrow said. “It really teaches them about nature. We’ve had dragonflies and butterflies that come to flowering plants, and lizards.”

Panten’s company specializes in designing what he calls “wetlands.” These can be as small as 4 by 6 feet and as large as half-acre lakes, he said.

“The same technology works in a back yard that would work in a lake,” Panten said.

“We just make it to scale.”

The technology he is referring to is a filtration system.

The ponds that Panten and his team of CACs (Certified Aquascape Contractors) install are equipped with a biological filter and a mechanical filter.

The mechanical filter houses a pump (inside of a “skimmer box” to keep it from clogging), which sends water up through a hose and through the biological filter, which is used to create a decorative waterfall.

“Inside that biological filter, you will have pads and media that grow beneficial bacteria, which ensures that every homeowner has crystal-clear, bottle-able water,” Panten said.

One of Platinum Ponds’ most popular water gardens is the 8-by-11-foot “Dragonfly.”

“We call it a water garden because it opens a whole new hobby in actually gardening with aquatic plants,” Panten said. “That’s one of my passions.”

Ponds have to be at least 8 by 11 feet to suit aquatic life such as fish and plants. And another benefit of ponds large enough to support aquatic life is mosquito control. Dragonflies, fish and birds all love to dine on the blood-sucking pests.

“In some of our ponds, our clients don’t even feed their fish because they can feed directly off nature,” Panten said.

Morrow stresses the importance of a having a balanced ecosystem in your pond.
First, you need to have an adequate amount of fish for the volume of water you have, she said.

“Our rule of thumb is one fish per 200 gallons. It may not seem like a lot in the beginning, but as the fish grow, your pond will seem full.”

With the fish you also need to have enough aquatic plants.

“The plants take in the extra nutrients, thus starving algae from being able to get those nutrients,” Morrow said. “Algae is a bad thing for those who want to enjoy the water features; they’re not really bad for the pond.”

Plants that work well in a water garden include taro, creeping Jenny, star grass, lilies, lotus, blue bells, hibiscus and liriope.

A successful ecosystem also requires homeowners to make sure the full volume of a pond is circulated once per hour.

Know how many gallons of water are in your pond and purchase a pump that pumps at least that much water per hour, Morrow said.

The fourth ecosystem component is introducing beneficial bacteria to your pond.

Even if you have a biological filter, you should introduce extra bacteria to the pond water about once or twice a month, Morrow said.

Bacteria breaks down fish waste and food waste, turning those waste products into nutrients.

The fifth and final eco-element is rocks and gravel. These protect your liner and give the bacteria something to latch onto, she said.

Many people choose to have streams connected to their ponds.

“We love our streams,” Panten said. “I call them self-cleansing birdbaths.”

Pondless waterfalls are the newest trick on the market. They contain the same bacteria as ponds, but the water disappears into a bed of gravel before it is recycled back to the top of the waterfall.

“It’s the sound of nature minus the fish,” Panten said. “It’s done by the foot, kind of like carpet.”

All of the ponds have steps installed for safety’s sake, just in case a child should meander into the water and need a way to get out. With a typical depth of 2 feet,
however, most ponds aren’t designed for swimming.

Whichever type of pond you decide is right for your back yard, plan on forking out some cash for your little piece of heaven — an 8-by-11 pond will run you about $4,999 installed, but it’s a onetime expense.

Because ponds are basically self-cleaning, upkeep is very simple.

“Just make sure the skimmer box is clean of debris. Then there’s a little bit of pruning once a year and a whole bunch of enjoyment. It’s less maintenance than the grass it replaces,” Panten said.

Still, if you think you have the skills needed and don’t need instant gratification, there is something to be said for do-it-yourself ponds.

Timmy McGill of Berea is building a two-tiered pond in his yard. When the project is completed, it will have a self-propelled waterfall and a fountain in the center of the larger pond.

The smaller pond, a Home Depot special, is already in place, but McGill is in the middle of the larger pond project. He dug out the base for the 5-foot by 15 to 20-foot pond and cut steps in the dirt leading up to the smaller pond with an excavator from the construction company he works for. The steps will serve as the channel for the waterfall, and a simple pump will circulate water from the lower pond to the upper pond so that it can flow back down.

He’s been gathering large rocks from construction sites to line the pond and steps.

Although he’s not sure what kind of fountain he’s going to put in the lower pond, he knows he wants it to be pretty elaborate, he said. And he believes that when it’s complete, the water garden will significantly raise the value of his property.

But that’s not the only attraction for McGill. He loves the look and feel that a water feature brings to a yard, he said.

“My problem is, I took on a little more than I thought it was going to be,” McGill said.

The project is on hold while he puts a few more coins in the piggy jar. But McGill doesn’t doubt he will have saved a heap of money in the end by doing it himself.
Altogether the project will cost him about $2,250.

If he had hired a contractor to do the job, it probably would have cost him around $20,000, he said.

Friday, June 27, 2008

Ponds Gone Wrong

Ponds have being built in backyards for decades. My father had a concrete pond in his backyard over 50 years ago. But, all ponds are not created equal. Some are homeowner attempts to make a fish pond to enjoy near a patio, others are landscapers who build 3 or 4 a year for a quick buck. But, if certain components of ponds are missing the homeowner is sure to become frustrated.

We meet and speak with homeowners daily that are frustrated with ponds. Unfortuantly, there is still very little published about these hidden gems of success.

An untrained eye can easily notice the difference between Platinum Ponds and a pile of rocks stacked in a circle. Most DIY ponds are holes with liners with a pump shooting water over rocks. Although this may work is some instances, it is high maintenance and usually abandoned after the newness has worn off.

We at Platinum Ponds found a pond in a backyard of an attorney here in Greenville SC who a troubled pond. The wife was the one delegated the responsiblity to call us to consult as to a easy solution to the problem. As you may have noticed from the photos, the pond not only did NOT look natural but, also had a leak. After further inspection we found the builder or contractor had cut budget by using a thin plastic liner and toxic roof tar and hydrolic cement to patch the exposed liner. In addition concrete faux rock patio pavers were used instead of natural rock to create the waterfall. One other short cut we find homeowners and contractors using is FREE ROCK (also known as Rotten Granite in the Upstate). Beware of using rotten granite as it falls apart and has a high PH impacting water quality and later control of algae.

Landscapers bank on the fact that the newness of the backyard landscapes will pay the balance upon satisfactory completion. Most know till nothing about how to care or maintain your feature, not mention a life long business relationship.

Take moment if you are serious about having a pond design or construction and read our
Pond Construction Warning Report.

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Problems in Spring

In spring, your fish will face many stresses: the weather, predators, parasites and disease, to name a few. I am sure (when temperatures dictate) your fish will once again start swimming at the surface, nibbling algae off the sides of the pond. Most likely some of you will dig out some of last year’s leftover fish food.

One of the biggest spring problems is the fluctuating temperatures, the uncertainty of tomorrow’s weather. Although we are never sure what the following day (or the next hour) will bring, spring can throw seemingly-summer days followed by blizzards. It is not the time to start feeding the fish. Once your area is reliably frost-free, you can consider starting to feed, preferably with a wheat-germ-based food. Your fish do not have the brain process that tells them (at least not accurately!) when they are hungry.

They are foragers, always eating small amounts, in their natural environment. Think of them as a herd of cattle, grazing all day and into the night. Their stomach is an elongated intestine which will continue to process today’s food for the next 3-4 days before it is empty.

Of course, that is at 60-70F temperatures, not 45-50F. At lower temperatures the whole process will slow down and eventually cease altogether. This is the reason not to feed on a nice sunny day in March or April, if there is any chance of the temperatures dropping again. Your fish do not benefit from a “full stomach” as you do, but will benefit more from being able to extract nutrients from that food you fed them over the next few days.

The next problem is last year’s fish food. By this time it has lost a lot of its nutritional value, as amino acids break down in a relatively short period of time. This is especially true if the food was not vacuum-sealed when it was new. Freezing foods can disrupt molecules and reduce nutrition, so freezing is not recommended either. Fat content in old food can become rancid, too, which may not even be noticeable to you, but your fish can become sick from eating it. The best rule of thumb is to purchase new food every season to be sure you aren’t neglecting, or even harming your fish.

Visit Platinum Ponds for products and services.

Sunday, March 30, 2008

Rainwater Harvesting in Greenville

As much as 60,000 gallons of precipitation falls on a 2,000 square foot roof in Mid-Atlantic States each year. Platinum Ponds distributes Complete rainwater harvesting system solutions to put this water to beneficial use. Rainwater harvesting systems offset demands on municipal and private water supplies for outdoor watering while conserving valuable drinking water resources.

The concept of collecting and using rainwater is not new. In addition to the advantages that rainwater is free of charge, it doesn’t have to be treated nor transported over long distances, the two most important arguments supporting the utilization of rainwater are:

1. Supplement drinking water resources -with the benefit of saving precious potable water

2. Protecting water quality by reducing impacts of stormwater runoff-with the benefit of limiting flooding and degradation of streams and lakes

Thanks to its characteristics the use of rainwater also has positive advantages: -Ideal for plant growth-Better washing efficiency -up to 50% less detergent required when compared with hard water-No calcification of fixtures and washing machines

All projects are not created equal and thus rainwater systems do not conform to a “one size fits all” sales format.

Residential systems generally supply rainwater to toilets, washing machines, garden irrigation and hosebibs (ie car washing).

View Rain Bank Brochure

Or form more information visit Platinum Ponds

Tuesday, March 4, 2008

Does High-tech “gismology” offers the right means to controlling nature?


If you take nothing else home from this discussion, understand that doing battle with Nature is a sure fire way to lose the water gardening war.

The essential ingredient in any successful water gardening experience is understanding Nature and cooperating with her in every possible way.

As a matter of fact a water garden is normally seen as an antidote to a high-tech, robot-dominated world of work that many humans want to escape from after work.

Water gardening offers a way to reconnect and cooperate with Nature, not a way to further dominate and control her.

Leave the high-tech stuff at work, roll your pant- legs up, stick your feet in the pond, and become a kid again. Relax.

Can you be a water gardener and a koi hobbyist simultaneously?

If you are in the business of showing koi competitively, which most water gardeners are not, then you may want to listen to what koi competitors have to say.

If you’re in the hobby for the sake of the relaxing lifestyle and to enjoy your pets,
combining water gardening and the hobby of keeping koi is done all the time.

In fact, knowledgeable water garden enthusiasts almost always keep some koi in order to have a naturally balanced system.

And water gardening lacks a sense of life and color if you fail to include a few of the crown jewels of water gardening.

So not only can you combine the two, we suggest that you should combine the two if you want to maximize your enjoyment of this most unique hobby.

Is more filtration in a pond is always better?

If you’re in the drinking water industry more filtration is always better.

If you’re in the swimming pool industry, more filtration is always better.

But if you’re in the pond industry, more filtration is not always better.

However, more filtration is always more expensive in more ways than one.

You can over-filter a pond and create maintenance problems that are best avoided.

Factually speaking, Nature keeps its koi in some pretty unclear water. If you can see a dime on the bottom of your pond, it’s more than good enough. Avoid over-filtering your pond and avoid unnecessary headaches and cost.

Does my pond need a bottom drain to have koi?

If you have rocks and gravel in your pond to break down debris, then a bottom drain is not necessary.
The beneficial bacteria that seeds within the gravel will remove any build-up that occurs over time.

There’s little difference in oxygen levels two feet down and two inches down, which eliminates one of the arguments favoring bottom drains.

They also tend to promote leaks and raise the possibility of land-locking your koi.

In clean, clear pond water, bottom drains look unnatural and detract aesthetically.

So generally speaking, we endorse the combination of a skimmer, biofalls or wetland filter. In general we discourage the use of bottom drains.

How often does a pond need to be cleaned?

If you build your pond so that it’s working against Nature, draining and cleaning it out will be a regular headache that you can look forward to.

If you build your pond so that it’s working in harmony with Nature, you can look forward to draining and clean-out once a year…max.

Actually cleaning a pond out in-season kills the good bacteria that you’ve carefully cultivated all spring, which makes regular clean-outs counterproductive.

Using a Timer on your pond is a great idea and saves you the hassle.

Using a timer to turn your pond off during the night is counterproductive because in the process you’ll lose oxidation in the water, kill off beneficial bacteria, and create all kinds of maintenance problems that you’re much better off without.

The only time you want to turn your pump off is in the winter or when someone is performing substantial maintenance like a spring cleanout.

The only timer we suggest is the one that turns your underwater lights on and off when the sun goes down in the summertime. It will draw you out to the pond.


My pond should be located in the lowest part of my yard, right?

Generally low areas of the yard collect water/run-off which will make your liner bubble
Without an explanation, that’s the presumption for many new pond enthusiasts.

But since the lowest part of the yard is usually not close to your house, that’s not normally where you’ll want to locate your pond.

For the sake of convenience and accessibility it’s important to locate the pond up close to the house, most often beside a patio or a deck.

In order to maximize your access, the pond should also be situated so that it’s easily visible from inside the house.

A professional consultation will help you to get the right answer to this question. Click on the Platinum Ponds logo to find out how.

Do Ponds create safety and liability issues?


In the day of mega-litigation, a box of Cheerios can be a liability issue.

Yet safety/liability are never small matters
Historically speaking, a correctly constructed pond (with shelves that step down into the pond) have proven to be safe.
Of course, educating kids about ponds is important if they’re going to be close
But if you’re still concerned, and you still want a water feature, a Pondless® Waterfall may be exactly what the Doctor ordered.
The Pondless® Waterfall also eliminates any worry over fish keeping because there are no fish to be cared for … which can be a pro or a con, depending on you.

The moral of the story is that if you want a water feature, there’s a way to do it.

For more info visit

Will having a pond decrease the value of my home?


When it comes to real estate, we all know that the three most important factors are location, location, and location, however…

In general, waterfront property commands more money not less money.

Recent surveys show ponds (and decks) to be the most desirable landscaping available in today’s market, so the odds are against losing money on a pond.

Surveys also show that if you want to dramatically increase the value of your home, the best investment you can make is in well-conceived landscaping.

For more info visit Platinum Ponds.

Is it okay to use chemicals in your pond?


If you have a swimming pool in your backyard chemicals are required.

If you have a small body of water like an aquarium, chemicals are occasionally required as well.

But to presume that what’s good for your swimming pool or your aquarium is also good for your pond is a mistake that you should try to avoid.

Products such as algaecide (copper sulfate) and fish antibiotics are sometimes used as quick fixes for imbalanced ponds.

But in the long run, when you contradict Nature, its wins and you lose.
Duplicate Nature and you’ll never lose. For more info visit Platinum Ponds.

Can you have koi in a gravel pond?

People who are involved in “showing koi” on a competitive basis, see their pets with a different set of eyes than water gardening people see them, however…

Koi are bottom feeders and they encounter rocks and gravel constantly in nature.

Koi are scavengers and naturally swim along the bottom, grazing on everything.

Koi are bored stiff with an unnatural, rubber lined bottom, and they’ll act bored in an unnatural setting.

Millions of happy and healthy koi are currently living in ponds with rock and gravel all over the bottom
Bottom line is, why contradict Nature? For more info visit Platinum Ponds.

Can you have a pond in the midst of trees?


Trees and ponds actually complement each other very nicely.

Trees can be the most interesting plants around your pond.

In the fall they will cause you to empty your skimmer daily.
If it’s a magnolia, you’ll have to empty the skimmer daily in the spring too.

But shade from trees help to discourage algae growth.

And sitting under the shade of a tree, on a hot summer afternoon listening to the sounds of your waterfalls is heavenly.
For more info visit Platinum Ponds.

Will my water garden attract mosquitoes?

If your pond water is stagnant it’ll definitely attract mosquitoes.

The trick is to make sure that your pond water is moving constantly.

If your pond water is moving, mosquitoes will be much less interested.

But just in case, skimmers sweep mosquito larvae in and drown them

Fish consider them a delicacy and pick them off the pond surface like candy

If you insist, you can use a larvae killer like PreStrike.

If you have a correctly constructed pond you can expect the mosquito population in your backyard will actually be less than without a pond.

For more info visit Platinum Ponds.

Do you have to test your pond water for pH daily?


People with aquariums do test for pH (among other things) regularly.

Small bodies of water like aquariums, require lots more testing than larger ones.

Generally speaking, the larger the body of water, the less testing is required.

In Nature’s large bodies of water, it never tests for anything, anywhere.

Do you have to bring your fish inside for the winter?


Again ask, does Nature bring its fish inside in order to overwinter them?

Aquarium people usually think in terms of small bodies of water.
But a pond is a relatively large body of water and the rules apply differently
Nature you see, allows its fish to hibernate at the bottom of the pond.

You should allow your fish to hibernate over the winter too
Your fish will be healthy, happy, and very anxious to see you in the spring.

Can Koi be kept in a pond that contains plants?


One again, millions of healthy and happy koi living in plant infested ponds are proof to the contrary
Koi and plants actually complement one another in nature, as they do in ponds.

Koi are happier and healthier when they are kept in the most natural setting possible.

Why would any water gardening enthusiast ever argue with Nature?

The aquatic circle of life is absolutely the central concept of ecosystem ponds and fish are one of the essential ingredients in that infinitely rotating circle.

Not only can they be, but koi should be kept in ponds that contain plants. For more information visit Platinum Ponds.

Does a pond need to be at least 36” deep to keep koi?


Millions of healthy and happy koi currently living in thousands of 24” deep ponds serve as physical proof that 36” is unnecessary when it comes to koi keeping.

The Earth’s insulation allows ice to only freeze up to 8 inches thick
This leaves 16” in which fish can safely hibernate over the winter

Building codes traditionally consider 24” to be a landscaping feature
A 24” deep pond also requires less work and costs less in the first place.

Is using UV lights the best way to keep your water clear?


A UV clarifier or UV sterilizer (the sterilizer’s wattage is significantly stronger), affects only the algae that physically passes through its beam, while most algae clings to a surface and is never directly effected.

The best goal is a naturally balanced pond in which the aquatic circle of life that we discussed previously is kept alive and well, allowing Nature to do the clean up work that it does so naturally, with almost no effort on its part.

An imbalanced pond will require the aid of unnatural solutions such as UV lights.

Drawbacks to the UV solution include the fact that when algae is killed, it often falls to the bottom of the pond, which in turn breaks down and creates more available nutrition, and encourages an even greater algae bloom as the result.

Your pond can actually develop an addiction in which it needs more and more UV clarifying in order to keep up with the increasing algae growth.

And finally, UV lights are NOT CHEAP and require continual maintenance.

For more info visit Platinum Ponds.

Can rocks and gravel make it difficult to clean your pond?

The conventional pond mentality presumes that the conventional accumulation of muck on the pond’s bottom will become all the worse with rocks and gravel … and they could not be more wrong.

The ecosystem pond mentality concentrates instead on maintaining a natural balance in the water garden, which in turn allows Nature to do most of the maintenance work on its own, for almost no extra cost.

Bacteria colonization occurs readily on the rocks and gravel because of the increase in surface area and helps the muck/debris to biodegrade/breakdown
Natural biodegradation turns muck and debris into nutrition that plants (including algae) can use to grow strong and healthy.

The aquatic circle of life occurs when the fish eat the plants, produce waste that falls to the bottom of the pond and, along with the debris biodegrades into nutrition that is used up by the plants which are eaten by the fish, etc., etc., etc.

As long as the pond is in balance and the infinite aquatic circle of life is in process, the pond owner will experience very few maintenance problems.

For more information visit Platinum Ponds.

Predators will eat all your fish?

Raccoons can swim but they don’t like to. They are much more likely to sit on the side of the pond hoping for a fish to swim within reach of a paw swipe. The fish, on the other hand, are generally acutely aware of the presence of predators and when the raccoon comes a calling, the fish generally swim to the bottom of the pond and hang out until the threat moves on to another location. In other words, raccoons are simply not a major problem for water garden enthusiasts.

Heron, on the other hand, have legitimate predatory credentials and are more than capable of making a meal out of your favorite koi, shubunkin, or goldfish if you allow them to. With long legs and large beaks, the Great Blue can easily swoop in, wade around and catch lunch before you have time to say “get out of here."

There are various solutions ranging from scarecrows (some are made to look like alligators) to laser equipped motion detectors that are poised to fire intermittent streams of water at offenders who trip the sensor in hopes of scaring them off.

However, Fish Caves are the best solutions to the heron dilemma, and can easily be made part of any well-conceived water garden during the installation process, for just a few bucks more.

For more info visit Platinum Ponds.

Friday, February 29, 2008

Pondless Waterfall Care

Recently, a couple new pondless owners have asked, "What should I do about the green stringy stuff?"
The string algae seems to thrive best in cold conditions. Seasonally, you begin to notice changes in the ecosytem. Unlike a swimming pool which is filled with chemicals and sterile, a pondless waterfall is a natural system that is friendly to plants, insects and birds.

If the algae becomes unsightly several things can be done for asthetics. First, and simplest option is to turn the feature off for 24-48 hrs. This will starve the algae and take it out of its growing enviroment.
Secondly, you can treat the water with Pondless Waterfall Algaeblast. This algaeside will kill the algae in the system. This will need to be added on a regular basis for added control.

Fighting against nature is always a poor choice. But, having a pondless waterfall feature can bring untold enjoyment for many years to come.
For more information visit Platinum Ponds

Southern Charm


Spring in the South is back. Ponds come alive early in the South, filled with exciting surprises as new aquatic life comes alive. We have always enjoyed Spring with it’s new fragrances and hues of colors. But, when you have a pond there are a host of questions you begin asking. So let’s take a few moments and highlight a few important questions we receive in the South.

Question #1 - When can I begin feeding my fish again?

Without getting technical about fish digestion, 55 degrees Fahrenheit or higher is the general rule of thumb for feeding fish. LoTemp fish food is a safer option until consistent warmer temperatures arrive. Medicated fish food can be added temporarily into the diet until the fishes immune systems strengthen. If you are in doubt, it would be safer to wait till your fish become extremely active after the 1st of March.

Question #2 – When should I clean out the debris in the pond?

The earlier the better. Leaves and debris begin rotting with warmer water temperatures and can do more than stain your water the color of tea. The question really is, are you nuts enough to clean a pond in January. If you have fish, the best time to clean your pond is when the hose water is about the same temperature of the pond. Fish will stress out less when these temperatures are almost the same. Hiring a passionate Certified Aquascape Contractor for a clean-out will be worth its weight in gold. Not just for the labor saving end, but also for the replacement of light bulbs and the proper handling of fish. You can rest assured if your pond is cleaned by a professional. Visit http://www.certifiedaquascapecontractor.com/ to one nearest you.


Question #3 – What do I need to have done in the Spring?

A great place to start would be to remove the filter mats and Lava rock/Bioballs and give them a good rinsing. If your mats and lava rock are in need of replacement, now would be the perfect time to do this. Removing any excess debris from the pond system will only help accelerate the jumpstarting of the ecosystem and leave less to be absorbed. Don’t forget to add beneficial bacteria. This will always help climax the system to its fullest potential reducing much of the debris. But don’t pass up the aquatic plants. These plants are natures sure way of reducing excess nutrients, keeping your pond in balance, and bringing friends back to visit your pond.

Southern charm and ponds go hand and hand. From plantation homes to modern suburban neighborhoods, ponds are the lifestyle. But with Spring there are a few things that need closer attention as our ponds awaken. These seemingly cumbersome tasks melt in comparison to the charm of the southern pond. These ponds set in their realistic elements evoke a southern fantasy that is enjoyed year round. With a relaxing change of pace set in a southern landscape, ponds help build life-long relationships to be enjoyed for years to come. From the enjoyment of being surrounded by nature to making memories with family, the southern charm fills our hearts and ponds.
For more information visit Platinum Ponds

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Predator's Busted


Now a blue heron is all wet when it moves close to a pond with a motion detected Scarecrow.

This natural and safe way is the best offense against herons and other predators that seek to harm your pond fish.

Simply hook the sprinker up to a hose and insert a 9 volt battery and your up and running.

Now there is an alternative to the unsightly nets and decoys that make your yard cluttered.


To learn more about the Scarecrow or to have one installed contact Platinum Ponds. Why not protect your fishy friends that have been in your family for years with a motion detected Scarecrow.

Sunday, January 27, 2008

NEW 2008 Fountains

Platinum Ponds will now offer a full line of low maintenance decorative pondless fountains.

Now a water feature can fit anywhere. From a warm greeting in the front entry to a relaxing meditation garden near an outdoor room a pondless fountain can capture the water feature lifestyle without the maintenance of the traditional fountain. Now every home can own a water feature for themselves. To see our whole new line download the new 2008 Aquascape catalog. For current prices download the 2008 Aquascape Price Sheet.






Friday, January 25, 2008

WHEN CAN I START FEEDING MY FISH?


Pond fish, such as goldfish and koi are mainly motionless during cold temps. Fish even though they may be moving does not mean that they are digesting properly. A pond thermometer is the answer to question. When the pond water is above 55 degrees farenheit begin feeding slowly with low temperature fish food. Some use Cheerios which is fine, but I would perfer a we balanced alternative for my fish investment.

FEEDING MY FISH?

If you keep your water in good condition and do not overstock the pond, the fish will require minimal care. If your pond is well planted, and sparsely stocked with fish, they will very often survive without extra food.

However, if you feed your fish, they will become larger, stronger, and tamer. There is an enormous range of foods - pellets, sticks and flakes.There are different blends to provide variety; some are rich in wheatgerm, which is easier to digest and therefore ideal for feeding in cooler weather; others contain algae-meal and carotenes to enhance the color pigments of the fish, and others are designed to encourage rapid growth.

Feed your fish once during the day rather than late evening, as it takes them longer to digest food in the cooler overnight temperatures. Fish should be fed less in cooler weather and more in warmer weather.

In the cool spring and fall feed them only on warmer days and when the water temperature reaches 50 degrees stop feeding them. A pond thermometer is an item all pond owners should have. Feed only the amount of food they will eat in 2 to 5 minutes. Excess food can actually feed the algae. If you have an algae problem, do not feed the fish as often and/or as much. It also is important to dose your pond several times a month with AquaClearer Extreme Bacteria to help balance the excess nutrients created by fish waste. It also will help your fish as it neutralizes the ammonia built up in the water from fish, especially Koi.

Fish can survive for a while without being fed but if you have young koi they will be eager to eat and need fuel to grow. It's all about balance. If you have an algae problem, you have an abundance of nutrients in the pond and not enough plants to absorb the nutrients. Make sure you have enough plants, look at the article on plants. Planting anacharis is the best solution to the algae control. Using bacteria on a regular basis also will help with that problem.

Don't forget to use the search tool to discover other topics of interest with only a keyword.
http://www.platinumponds.com/

Thursday, January 24, 2008

Spring Maintenance

Spring is simply the most exciting time of the year. As things slowly awaken from their winter hibernation, there are some things that you can do to make sure your water feature gets off to a good start this spring.

Does you water feature need a full clean-out this season or does it just nee to be tidied up a little? There are a couple of things that you can look for to help you decide. First, if there is a layer of "crud" at the bottom of the pond and the water is dark in color, it would be a good idea to do a full clean-out.

On the other hand, if there is just a small amount of debris that you can stir up and capture with a net and water looks clear, a little tidying up is all that's in order. Plan on spending a half to a full day to complete a pond clean-out. A Pondless waterfall will take considerable less time.

The best time to perform a pond clean-out is in early Spring, before your water garden completely awakens from its winter dormancy - ideally before the water temperature in the pond creeps above 55 degrees F. If a clean-out is performed when the water is warmer, after bacteria colonies form, the balance of the ecosystem will again be thrown off and your pond will go through another "green phase" before the bacteria colonies re-establish themselves again.

Drain the Pond / Pondless Waterfall

Place the clean-out pump in the deepest point of the pond or in the Pondless Waterfalls
snorkel in order to remove the water.

Drain the water into the surrounding landscape. Be sure to relocate the pipe two or three times to allow the water to seep into the ground and not flood the yard. (Note: Platinum Ponds recycles most of its water using a collapsable 800 gallon fish tank. This not only save costs, but reseeds the pond with benificial bacteria)


If you have fish, use some of this pond water to fill up the holding pool. The fish can be removed from the pond using a net once the water is low enough so you can easily catch them.


Don't keep the fish in the holding pool for more than several hours. Keep them in a shady spot with a net over the top of the pool to prevent them from jumping out.

Don't Overdo the Cleaning


Rinse the inside of the pond. You can also use a pressure washer to help remove debris from the rocks and gravel.

Don't try to scrub all of the algae away. Some algae on the rocks will prove beneficial in developing you ecosystem. For an average size pond (11x16) this should take around 15 minutes.

Use the gentle stream from a garden hose to rinse the rocks and gravel. Start at the top and work you way done to the bottom. Periodically turn the clean-out pump on to remove the dirty water. You can discontinue the periodic pumping once the water rinsing down to the bottom begins to look clear. Remove the pump and begin filling the pond.

Cleaning the Filters

Remove any debris from the bottom of the skimmer and Snorkel Vault. This can be done by hand or by using a cleanout pump.

Remove the media nets and filter pads from the Biofalls Filter. (Not included in the Pondless Waterfall) If you have the optional drain kit attached to your Signature Series Biofalls Filter, you can open the valve and rinse the media and filters. Once the filters have been removed rinse them free of accumulated debris.



The filter media and mats can be put back into place and the waterfall pump can be reattached in the skimmer or Snorkel Vault.


Putting Your Fish Back Into Their Clean Home


Your pond clean-out is now done and it's time to put your fish back into their home. Once your pond is half full, you can perform these steps to safely place your fish back in the pond.

  • If you're on city water, it's imperative that you add a declorinator to the water so it is safe for fish.
  • Dip a five-gallon bucket, or similiar sized container, into the holding tank and fill with water. (It should go unsaid but, make sure the container does not have any toxins on it from prior use)
  • After you've caught a fish, place it in the bucket and set the buckets in the clean water.
  • After about 15 minutes periodically begin splashing some pond water into the bucket.
  • By now, the temperature of the pond and the bucket of water should be close to the same. You are ready to spill the fish into their spring-cleaned home.

If this sounds like too much for you to do alone or if you do not have all the equipment contact http://www.platinumponds.com/

For more information please use the search bar at the top of the page to search any keywords of interest.

Saturday, January 19, 2008

Why Bacteria are not Enzymes, and other Essentials.



Many products today contain bacteria or enzymes that can clear blocked pipes, break down oil or grease and remediate the environment. To appreciate and understand the potential of these products, we need basic information about bacteria and enzymes to be
aware of their benefits and uses.

Historically, we have been using bacteria and other enzyme-producing microorganisms to our advantage for many years. Within the food industry, we have created wines that are made by the enzymatic actions of microbes on grapes, and in grounds care we mulch our
grass and leaves by allowing the microbes to break them down to a usable fertilizer. In the environment, we use the action of microbes to degrade our sewage, and even in environmental pollution, like oil spills, microbes are used as a partial measure to break down the oil that pollutes water.

HISTORY OF ENZYMES

The first enzyme to be purified in crystalline form was urease, extracted from the jack bean, in 1926 by Dr. James Sumner of Cornell University. This enzyme hydrolyzes (a chemical process that uses the molecules of water to break down chemical bonds) urea
molecules to carbon dioxide and ammonia. Today, some carpet cleaning products contain bacteria that have the ability to produce urease that is intended to target urine present in some soiled rugs.

Increased awareness of the natural action of microbes and enzymes emerged in the 1970s. Cumulative data showing the toxic effects of compounds such as PCBs, DDT and detergents caught our attention.

These compounds are recalcitrant, meaning that they accumulate and are not broken down by microbes into essential elements. It became obvious that, as an industrial society, we needed to start producing pesticide and detergent compounds that could be attacked by microbes and degraded over a period of time, or we would slowly poison ourselves.

An example of a success story is the change in the formulation of detergents that are composed of branching chemical structures to ones that have straight chemical chains, which are more easily biodegraded by microorganisms.

Bacteria, Not Enzymes Bacteria are not enzymes. Like all living cells, bacteria produce and use enzymes to break down or assimilate (put together) chemical compounds necessary for cell survival. Some scientists refer to bacteria as "sacks of enzymes.

"Enzymes are termed "biological catalysts" because they are chemicals (mainly protein) that bind with another chemical (referred to as the substrate) that is then broken down. Because of their enzymes, bacterial organisms vary in their abilities to withstand environmental conditions and break down compounds.

Some of these organisms can withstand temperatures of 212 degrees Fahrenheit or minus 200 F. Some live in extremely acidic or alkaline conditions, and some are able to use oil (hydrocarbons) or lipids (fat) for food. These survival characteristics are governed by the bacteria's ability to make and use various enzymes.

Factors that are important for enzyme action alone, or for bacterial action via enzymes, are temperature, pH (degree of acidity or alkalinity) and solubilization of the substrates. Most bacteria are active in an environment of 90 to 100 F with a neutral pH.

Pure enzymes vary in pH requirements and stability (see table). When pure enzymes are added to a building environment such as a drain, the enzyme is usually short-lived due to the fragile nature of the enzyme under those conditions. The solubility of the substrate
can be improved by the presence of surfactants (detergent-like substances) added to the enzyme cleaning solution.

PURE ENZYMES

An example of the beneficial action of an enzyme is the production of lipase in the presence of cooking grease. Under the appropriate conditions, bacteria release lipase enzymes that bind to lipids, which may have been rendered soluble by surfactants.

A lipid is a complicated structure that usually contains fatty acids that are bound to a basic glycerol structure. The lipase enzyme attacks the lipid, releasing the fatty acids. These fatty acids can then be broken down to smaller compounds by enzymes from other bacteria or from the same bacterium.

This same bacterium, or other bacteria, may produce protease enzymes (that break down protein from the meat that is present in the grease) and amylase enzymes (that break down starch from the flour that is present). The grease, which is a combination of lipids,
proteins and starch, is broken down to more soluble compounds that flow more readily.
Pure enzyme solutions are made by extracting enzymes from animal tissues, the broth in which microorganisms grow or from lysed microbial cells. The stabilization of enzymes is sometimes difficult because they have to be packaged at the correct pH level with a chelating agent, which protects the enzymes from binding to certain metals and becoming inactive.

Some enzymes are offered in commercial products to help clear drains or partially break down proteins. The disadvantage in using enzyme solutions alone is that pure enzymes will disintegrate in a short period of time, while bacteria are capable of colonizing and
will reproduce to produce more enzymes.

PACKAGED' BACTERIA

To "package" bacteria for use, they have to be put into a dormant state to withstand some harsh environmental conditions, such as temperature variations. The packaging is accomplished by drying (but not killing) them or by selecting bacteria that can become
dormant in a spore stage.

The drying process stops enzyme activity and makes the cells stable until they are rehydrated. This product containing bacteria is a powder that we sprinkle onto the liquid. Once in the liquid, the bacteria are rehydrated, which activates their enzymes and stimulates the bacteria to begin feeding on the nutrients (the soil that we are trying to remove from the surface).

Bacterial spores are very resistant to temperature variations and acidic or alkaline environments. Spore-forming bacteria are grown in a way that causes the formation of spores. The spores are harvested and packaged dry or in a specially formulated liquid.

The main spore-forming species found in grease-cleaning products is Bacillus. When the Bacillusspores are added to a favorable environment (possibly a grease trap) the spores germinate into vegetative (growing) cells that activate enzyme systems and begin feeding
on the available nutrients.

Bacteria must be given time to degrade soil compounds, so simply wiping a surface with a bacterial solution that degrades oils would not be very effective. However, the necessary temperature, pH, solubilized substrate and other miscellaneous factors must also be present for bacterial growth.

HAZARDS

The degree of health hazard while using enzyme or bacterial products is probably very low. However, one concern may be the breathing of aerosols of bacteria sprayed onto surfaces. Most Bacillus species don't produce disease, but some of the other bacteria that may be removed from the surface due to the action of the enzyme or bacteria solutions have the potential to cause disease.

An example of harmful bacteria is Pseudomonas aeruginosa, which can be found in dust, soil and a variety of natural environments. Under the appropriate conditions it can affect humans, especially through skin lacerations or the respiratory tract of immunocompromised individuals.

Today, bacterial products with enzymes are being developed that might replace the toxic actions of strong acids and surfactants. Scientists who are on the cutting edge of technology are genetically engineering microbes to optimize the capabilities and effectiveness of the enzymes that they produce. Desirable genes from environmentallyunstable microbes are being transferred to other microbes that are more resistant to environmental changes and easier to grow.

Commercial manufacturers, the environment and, eventually, the end user will benefit as the technology grows.

James M. Barbaree, Ph.D. is a consultant in microbiology to I. Schneid, Inc., a manufacturer of institutional and industrial chemical cleaning products, in Atlanta, GA. James E. Harless is vice president of marketing at I. Schneid, Inc.

Enzymes Basics

To understand how any cleaning product works we must first understand what dirt is or rather comprised of.

Dirt is actually layers of fine films made up of grease, oils, fats, bacteria, germs, dust mites, non-organic material and organic micro-organisms. These films are bonded to each other and to the surface by amino and fatty acids.

Most cleaners emulsify some of these films but do not break down all the amino or fatty acids. Usually the visible layers of the films can be removed with general cleaning products giving the appearance of a clean surface. Quite often the organicmicro-organism remain to collect and feed bacteria and germs. These areas often re-soil quicker and are the main cause of odor problems.
Enzymes attack or digest the amino and fatty acids that bond these films together and to the surface being cleaned so that they can be transferred completely off the surface.

Enzymes are simply chemical catalysts that accelerate the natural biodegrading or breakdown of organic substrate.

More specifically enzymes are manufactured proteins that exists in all living organisms such as plants, animals and bacteria. Their purpose is simply to digest waste. It's this natural "Dust to
Dust" process that constantly occurs in our environment that keeps plant, animal and human waste from over-running us.

Enzymes are derived from all living organisms and are harmless to humans, animals and marine life. They perform their catalytic function on contact, with no effect to themselves. Enzymes are non-toxic, non-irritating, non-gaseous, non-flammable, nonpathogenic and non-hazardous.
There are hundreds of thousands of enzymes each having specific, individual characteristics. For example an enzyme that causes proteins to break down will not react on fats and oils. Therefore any effective enzyme cleaning system must contain enough different classes and types of enzymes to assure proper catalytic reaction to speed up the natural "dust to dust" process.
The four basic classes of enzymes are grouped as follows:

A. Lipase ------ Those that break down fats and greases.
B. Protease ---- Those that break down proteins.
C. Cellulase --- Those the break down cellulose such as wood, cotton & paper.
D. Amylase ----- Those the break down carbohydrates and starches.

Available to the market place today are two basic types of enzyme cleaning products. The first group are Bacteria Producing Enzymes. This type of product contain actual strains of
bacteria that produce the needed digestive enzymes when added to organic material.

The other product group are Preformed Enzymes which contain only the protein manufactured enzymes and emulsifiers. This is the preferred group although somewhat more expensive to manufacture.

Preformed Enzymes work best in Health Care, Restroom and Food Handling areas where the introduction of any kind of bacteria may cause concerns.

Enzymes actually out-perform Germicidal Cleaners because they digest the host material where the germs and odor causing bacteria live and reproduce. Germicides will kill germs and odor causing bacteria but because they do not eliminate the host organic material, new bacteria can and will begin to reproduce very soon after the germicidal has been
applied.

Although enzymes are very effective in cleaning and eliminating odors they are not designed to perform well in a restorative cleaning situation where heavy grease, dirt, lime or calcium build up is present. They are designed to be very effective in maintaining certain levels of cleanliness and should be incorporated into a maintenance cleaning cycle where odor and appearance is a concern. By James M. Barbaree, Ph.D., and James E. Harless

For more info visit us at http://www.platinumponds.com/

Friday, January 18, 2008

Waterfall and Stream Construction Basics

A man-made waterfall is simply water pumped from one body of water to an area above that body of water. Then the water falls back down due to gravity. If you do it right, it will look good, sound good, and not lose any water in between. Before you get started, there are a few questions you'll need to answer.

How far and how high will the water need to be pumped?
How wide will the waterfall be?
What type of rock is being used?
What is the desired style of the waterfalls?


To achieve the desired effect, we first need to know how high and far the water is being moved. This information determines which pump will be required to complete the task. Be sure to do your homework on the technical side, and when in doubt, use Aquascape's technical service dept. to help you eliminate any mistakes.

Be sure to read our section on pond contruction for tips on building your pond.
Once the pond is built, we're ready to start on the stream and waterfall construction. We have the list of components, we know the rock that we're using and the style of the falls, and we know where it's starting and ending. How do we connect them in an interesting yet functional manner? The easiest way is to follow nature's designs.

As you design, layout, and construct the stream portion of the project, there are a few tips you should keep in mind to help you create the most naturalistic stream possible. Remember, water wants to run downhill as quickly as possible, and along the way it hits objects that are harder than the surrounding soil (large rocks and logs), and encounters sharp elevation changes. When this happens, the water moves off course, and the new watercourse continues downhill until it hits another object, and the cycle starts all over again. The larger the hill, the greater the odds of the water hitting objects. The goal is to copy this look as much as possible. With that in mind, let's start constructing the stream.

Stream Construction Techniques
When excavating a streambed into an existing slope or hill, simply mark the stream edge, and dig down about 6" to 8" deep. This allows enough room to accommodate the rock, gravel, and water with a couple of inches to spare. Those couple of square inches will allow for some settling and compaction of the soil to keep the stream leak-free. You can dig the stream deeper, of course. We've given the minimum amount of space needed.

The stream should twist and turn as it makes its way towards the pond. The turns will increase the sounds. and will also increase the number of viewing areas in the water garden. The more places it can be seen, the more the water garden will be enjoyed.

Getting Creative with the Stream
The stream should get narrow in areas, and then widen out and slow down in others. Make sure you use a good mix of stone and gravel to create a natural look. Fill the streambed with aquatic plants and you've just created an awesome supplement to your filtration system. The hardest part about streams is learning how the water reacts in certain situations. When a stream is long and without much slope, the water will tend to move too slowly, causing water to well up along the sides. This can become a problem if the edges aren't high enough.

Although there are no concrete rules (they vary from project to project), we follow a simple set of guidelines based on experience and common sense.

  • Always slope the streambed towards the pond.
  • Have areas within the stream where the water can pool.
  • If the stream narrows in one place, open it back up downstream.
  • Leave several inches of soil and liner above the proposed water level in the stream.
  • The water depth of the stream is determined by the height of the weir in the closest downstream waterfall.
  • High water flow rates need a wider stream and / or higher edges.

The Waterfalls in the Stream
Each waterfall area is dug out according to the size of the rock(s) being used. When possible, we prefer to use one rock for each waterfall in the stream and rapids areas.

  • The easiest waterfall style is the sheet of water effect.
  • Place two large boulders on either side of a level waterfall weir.
  • Fill between the boulders with smaller stones, and place a piece of flagstone on top. Adjust the flagstone for the best fit, then check it with a level.
  • Remove the flagstone, and put a layer of foam on the liner.
  • Reset the flagstone and you're done.

Rapids or falls made up of small boulders are also fairly easy to build because they're typically small.

  • Set the main boulders that will frame the rapids area.
  • Dry set a series of smaller stones between the main boulders, they should fit tightly together.
  • Choke the water down with strategically placed stones, so it's flowing at twice the normal rate. The typical flow rate is 1500 gph for every foot of waterfall width. Twice the rate would then be 3000 gallons for every foot. Rapids are typically 1' to 1 1/2' wide, which would require 3000 to 4500 gph.
  • This high flow rate is necessary to create the desired white water within the rapids. The best way to see the water is when it's flowing over smooth stones. If you don't have the higher flow rate, the water will still flow over the stones, but it will hug the rocks and only make them appear wet. The smooth rounded stones demand a larger volume and greater water velocity. Otherwise, you won't have the look and sound of white water, and the falls could look somewhat anemic.
  • Remove the smaller stones, lean the main boulders forward, and foam behind them. Set the next course of small stones in place, and apply more foam.
  • Continue placing small stones on top of each other in an overlapping fashion, covering the joints of the stones underneath.
  • Work your way all the way up to a level a couple of inches higher than the waterfall weir. This will hold the gravel in the streambed in place so it doesn't get washed over the falls.

Creating a Spring
Next we'll use BIOFALLS to create a spring. The hardest part of using BIOFALLS like this, is getting the level of the water set properly. The water level in the BIOFALLS spring should be set so it's 1" to 2" higher than the water level of the pool that it flows into. Whatever you do, don't set the BIOFALLS below the upper pool. If it's too low, it'll have to be moved to keep it from leaking, and that's no easy task. Treat the stonework just like the rapids discussed above. The water will well up within the BIOFALLS and flow down between the boulders. The nice thing about this is that since you don't have a bermed up area that sticks out, everything is at grade level, and it truly looks like a spring.


Stream Construction
Streams set the mood in a water feature. When you close your eyes and envision a stream in your mind, what image appears? Is it a loud crashing watercourse showing you the power of water, or is it a slow meandering stream, making you fell peaceful and tranquil? You may have the most beautiful visions, but without an understanding of stream construction, it can become a flash flood of problems. We love to design and build streams, which we feel are an integral part of a water feature's form and function. Before you start designing your water garden, you should know what your capabilities are. All it takes to build an impressive stream is a little extra liner, rock, gravel, and pipe. Well, it's not quite that easy. There are a few other things you must know before getting started.


How high and far does the water have to go?

  1. Sure, it's great to have a stream tumbling out of the mountains, but remember, you have to pump the water up there first. The greater combined height and distance equates to a greater amount of head pressure put on your pump. You may have to compensate for this by using a larger pump and increasing your pipe diameter to allow for a higher flow volume. This will change your costs somewhat, and we would definitely recommend going with a high efficiency pump to help offset some of the electrical costs. Another option is to use multiple pumps and piping to supply a greater water volume. We prefer this second option whenever possible because it provides greater flexibility. You can shut one pump down without stopping the entire stream.
  2. Increase your reservoir. One of the most frequent design flaw is having a large upper pond or stream going into a small lower pond. It should be the exact opposite; the lower pond should always be larger. The reasoning behind it is simple. You need a large volume of water where your pump is to supply the water in your stream. This becomes crucial during times of pump maintenance or power outages.
  3. An often overlooked part of stream construction is the thickness of your waterfall stones.Water will eventually seep through the foam joints if the pumps are off for prolonged periods of time. The water will slowly seep around thick stone, resulting in water loss equal to the thickness of that stone.
  4. Three basic scenarios that you will encounter. a. A flat backyard b. Slope going away from home c. Slope going towards the home
  5. A Flat Backyard This is easy to work with. You may need to bring in fill material if you want a fast moving stream. Otherwise, do a combination of deep stream with fast upper stream.
  6. Slope Going Away from Home This is more challenging and more expensive. You will definitely have to bring fill material to the site if you want a stream visible from the main viewing area. You must be very careful about fill compaction and retaining wall integrity. If done properly, it is an amazing transformation, and well worth the challenge.
    Slope Going Towards HomeThis is the easiest and most natural looking. Simply shape and carve the hillside for the desired effect. The trick with this is to try to keep all soil on the site. You may have to haul some away, but it will not be a problem as long as you make provisions ahead of time.
  7. The Deep Stream If you are set against the concept of a large lower pond, simply incorporate the stream into the pond. No matter what, never make a small lower pond with a large stream. Even though you may have a great vision in your mind's eye, you could be creating a major problem by not adhering to these few simple rules on stream construction.

One more thing before you get started...You may be anxious to get out and start building a dreamscape with lots of flowing water and a serene pond filled with lilies and extraordinary Koi. Before you get your marking paint and shovels out, there's one more greatly misunderstood concept of water garden construction to talk about here.


It seems that many people are so enthralled with the sound of water, that all they want is a huge waterfall and stream that fills their property with the incredible sound of falling water. The only problem is, if the pond gets neglected, and / or forgotten about, it doesn't work very well.
Let your creativity take over and see what happens. Regardless of the outcome, you'll definitely learn something and, in the process, you'll learn a little each time.

The bottom line on water garden construction is, if you enjoy yourself, it will show in your craftsmanship. There's no greater feeling than the satisfaction of a job executed to perfection, and loving every minute of it.

Certified Aquascape Contractors (CAC's) are the most qualified and informed installers in the pond construction industry. All CAC's are required to attend continual training and education seminars and maintain a proven record of outstanding work and dedicated customer service and support. www.aquascapeinc.com

Pond Liners & Tips on Lining Your Pond

Choosing the Right Liner
The first step in choosing the proper pond liner is to educate yourself on the selection of liners that are available. Over the years, The Pond Guystm, Aquascape's elite construction crew, have tested many different pond supplies in the field. We have also been called out to many job sites where a pond had been installed using inferior supplies, allowing us the opportunity to see how these products hold up to the test of time and the forces of nature.

Liner Warranty
Don't even consider using a pond liner if it doesn't come with a long term warranty. All of the liners described here come with a 20 year warranty. It states that the liner will not prematurely deteriorate because of weathering within the 20 year period. The sun's ultraviolet rays are the primary culprit in the deterioration of most liners. A properly built pond, with boulders and gravel covering the liner, will protect the liner from ultraviolet rays. Further extending its lifespan well beyond 20 years.

What is Fish Safe?
It is important to also determine whether the liner you choose is safe for any fish that may inhabit the pond. According to Andy Furman, production manager of Carlisle Syntec, Aquascape's supplier of fish safe pond liners, "a fish safe liner is given a stamp of approval by the manufacturer that guarantees the membrane is chemically compounded to be fish safe, and that this is verified by testing to ensure that it is not toxic to fish."

It's Not Worth the Risk
Yes, it's true, some people have used pond liner that is not stamped as fish safe without a problem. But there have also been reports of pond owners with dead fish in their new ponds, built without fish safe liner. The reason? Liner manufacturers use a wide variety of raw materials to produce their liners and quite often the cost of one raw material might increase, causing the manufacturer to choose a less expensive substitute raw material. These substitutes may not be safe for aquatic life. This would help explain why people sometimes get away without using fish safe liner, while others have dead fish. In our opinion, it's just not worth the risk!
What liner does Aquascape Designs recommend?45 mil EPDM Rubber fish safe liner.There is a definite pecking order used at Aquascape Designs in determining what pond liner should be used for a specific job. Our liner of choice is 45 mil EPDM fish safe liner. We love this liner because of a few important properties.

Advantages: EPDM is extremely flexible. This comes in handy when working with the irregular twists, turns, and shelves commonly found in a pond or stream. EPDM easily drapes into the excavated area and conforms to all of the nooks and crannies in the application.

Limitations: Size is a limitation when specifying EPDM for a job. The largest roll size manufactured is 50' x 100'. Seeming EPDM can be difficult. You may have noticed that Aquascape offers seaming supplies for EPDM rubber.

Why not just seam two large sections together?
Weather conditions have to be perfect in order to properly complete a seam. Moisture, such as rain or cold, damp conditions can affect seam quality.
You need to have a good, flat foundation in order to perform the seam.
The seam tape can be a real mess. It wants to stick to everything, including you! Not to mention that seaming is tedious and time consuming.
We do seam EPDM liner in the field, but we don't seam large sections of liner together. We usually only seam short sections of liner together, such as where a deep stream liner meets the pond liner.

40 mil Polypropylene
There are a couple of other pond liner alternatives to choose from if your pond requires a liner larger than 50' x 100'. One of them is 40 mil polypropylene.

Advantages: 40 mil polypropylene is actually more durable and puncture resistant than 45 mil EPDM. If the job requires a liner larger than 50' x 100' the factory will custom make the liner for your project. This custom sizing takes about two weeks, so you need to allow for that in scheduling the project. The liner can be made in sizes over four times as large as EPDM. The other great attribute of a polypropylene pond liner is its ability to be seamed or "welded" together very easily. This comes in very handy in the field. The process is as simple as using a standard heat gun that can be purchased at any hardware store. The pond liners are overlapped and welded, or melted together. This technique takes a little practice, but once learned, can be easily applied in the field.

Limitations: Flexibility and Cost. Polypropylene, unfortunately, is not nearly as flexible as EPDM. This limits its use to larger projects. Trying to use polypropylene on the typical small residential backyard pond would be difficult and the bends and curves would be aggravating. Polypropylene is a few cents per square foot more expensive than EPDM. This can add up quickly on large projects. Its performance and durability, however, are well worth the extra dollars.

30 mil Polythylene
For large projects that are under budget constraints, we turn to our third choice for pond liners, 30 mil polythylene.

Advantages: The only real advantage of polythylene is its cost. It's about half the cost of polypropylene and EPDM. As with the polypropylene liner, it too can be manufactured to custom fit your application.

Limitations: Cheaper isn't always better, and in this case, you get what you pay for. Polythylene is not nearly as flexible as EPDM or polypropylene. It is a "plastic" type liner and can be stiff to work with. Polythylene does not hold up as well with the beating that it takes from the placement of large stones in the pond. Basically, you have to be a little more careful! Polythylene cannot be seamed together without expensive welding equipment. Typically, seaming of polythylene is subcontracted out to a specialist who has the proper equipment and training. We have used polythylene with success on a number of large scale installations over the last eight years, but it was not until the 40 mil polypropylene pond liner was introduced to us 2 years ago that we switched away from polythylene. If you can't fit the higher cost of polypropylene into a large-scale pond budget, you can choose polythylene as a less expensive alternative.

Pound for Pound ... Something to Consider
When it comes to building large ponds that require 40 mil polypropylene or 30 mil polythylene liners, one needs to factor in the weight of the liner. Pond liners for large 1/2 acre ponds can easily weigh a couple of tons. This is an obstacle that is often overlooked, but with a dozen or so laborers and a little sweat, the liner can be pulled into an excavated pond.

Choose the Pond Liner Carefully
There are many types of liners out there to choose from. Advertisements claiming "lighter weight" or "more tear resistant" are frequently seen in publications. We enjoy putting them to the test in the field, and to this day, we have not found any liners that can touch the quality, flexibility, strength, durability, and cost-effectiveness of EPDM, polypropylene, or polythylene. The proper selection of one of these three pond liners will help guarantee a successful installation.

Underlayment
Underlayment is installed before the pond liner in order to prevent any punctures that may occur from rough or rocky ground. Many different types of materials have been used for ponds in the past. The best material is the one that is easy to use, cost effective, and readily available. The only underlayment that Aquascape Designs' construction crew uses is a non-woven, geotextile fabric. It's lightweight and very effective and gives you the biggest bang for your buck.
This underlayment actually serves a couple of purposes. It not only provides protection for the liner from rocky soils and roots, but it also allows the ground to breathe from underneath. You see, the Earth releases gases, and the fabric allows the gases to escape from underneath the liner rather than becoming trapped and causing gas bubbles to push the liner up into the pond. In the past, we have tried everything available, newspapers, carpet, and sand, and we will never revert back to them.

What is the Best Foundation for a Pond Liner?
Aquascape Designs has tested just about every known form of underlayment out there. There are many different types of soil and terrain out there, and not every form of underlayment will provide a stable foundation. However, after years of testing, geotextile underlayment has become the clear, definitive, product of choice for our everyday routine. This product has far too many positive qualities that work in our favor during and after the installation of a water garden to use anything else.

There are disadvantages to every other underlayment material that you can use.

Our Recommendations:

Non-woven, geotextile fabric is

Professional looking
Its light weight makes it
Very efficient
Cost-Effective

What We Don't Recommend:

Newspaper
Too much trouble to collect enough of it
Hard to apply in windy conditions
Time consuming

Old Carpet
Non-professional
Hard to come by
Difficult to cut and form to the shape of the pond
Labor intensive

Sand
Labor intensive
Does not protect vertical walls inside the pond
Shifts and settles

Underlayment for the Stream?
This is probably the most common question we get when a customer is ordering a kit. The answer is that it is completely up to you, however, we very rarely install underlayment in a stream. Most streams are very shallow, so the stream itself does not put a lot of pressure on the liner like thousands of gallons of water or tons of stone would. By not having this pressure on the liner, we eliminate the chance of preventing gases from escaping from the earth or having rough soil puncturing our stream liner. Of the hundreds of ponds we've installed in our area, 98% were installed without underlayment underneath the stream liner.

How is the underlayment Used?
The underlayment should always be installed before the pond liner goes down. It doesn't matter if you have a puddle in your backyard, or a one acre pond.
When installing the underlayment, it doesn't matter which side is up or down - just make sure that all parts of the pond will be protected with the fabric.
The fabric only comes in widths of 15' and is available in lengths of up to 300'. When a project requires underlayment wider than 15', simply cut the underlayment along the length and overlap this piece next to the existing 15' wide increment. There is no seaming or connecting of the underlayment. Just make sure there is no soil showing wherever the liner is going to be placed.

For expert pond building work, supplies, or advice, contact a Certified Aquascape Contractor near you.

The content of the Pond & Water Garden Resources Website comes from the book Pond Builders Bible everything Aquascape Designs Does Revealed. Published by Aquascape Designs, Inc. / The Pond Guy Publications. Batavia, IL

The Three Types of Pond Filtration

There are dozens of manufacturers producing hundreds of filters. Each month a new filter gets thrown onto the market. Which one is best? What's the difference in them? What do you need to know if someone else asks you about the differences? Here we'll try to untangle the tangled mess of filters on the market, and make you an expert in the field of pond filtration.

The Three Types of Pond Filtration
The three types of pond filters include biological, mechanical, and chemical / sterilizer filters. Biological filtration works by using bacteria to break down pond wastes, converting them into harmless particles that can be used as aquatic plant fertilizers. Mechanical filters work by trapping and removing debris and sediment, thus cleaning the pond water. Skimmers and pre-filters for pumps are two examples of mechanical filters.
Water sterilizers, such as ultraviolet or ozone generators, destroy all living organisms that they contact. They are higher maintenance, and should be left for pools and spas.
Many filters overlap into more than one category. For example, our BIOFALLS has large amounts of surface area for biological filtration, while the filter mats help with the removal of fine to medium sized particles, which is a mechanical variety of pond filtration.

Biological Filtration
There are many types of nutrients found in a pond system - fish waste, uneaten fish food, leaves and runoff from lawns to name a few. High levels of ammonia (a form of nitrogen) are highly toxic to fish and are a major contributor to prolific algae growth. In pond construction, the primary nutrient that biological filtration utilizes and renders usable is nitrogen.
How it works.In biological filtration, certain bacteria, known as facultative bacteria, absorb ammonia, and turn nitrites into nitrates, which are not as dangerous. These bacteria require oxygen to live, so it's important for the pump to run 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. If the pump shuts down, the bacteria can quickly use up all of the oxygen and die.
Nitrates are removed from the pond by another biological filtration method known as de-nitrification. This process occurs only in anaerobic (without oxygen) areas of the pond. That's why it's not necessarily bad for some areas of your pond to experience minimal water flow (such as on the bottom of the pond an inch or so beneath the gravel). The bacteria that live in this area of the pond turn nitrates into nitrogen gas, which is released into the atmosphere.
For any biological filtration to work, there literally needs to be billions and billions of bacteria working to purify the pond. They prefer to anchor on to things, which is why surface area is so important. More surface area means more bacteria, and more bacteria means better biological filtration. (Water Garden Plants are great biological filters).

A complete pond filtration system.A good biological filtration system, teamed up with a mechanical filter (such as a skimmer) to remove solids before the water enters the biological filtration unit, is the most effective way to filter water. As the water enters the biological filter, there should also be a swirl chamber designed to avoid channeling, and to allow more solids to settle.

Next. the water should flow up evenly through the filter media. Any number of materials could be used as long as they have a high amount of surface area. We've found lava rock to be a very effective material. The final factor in a good biological filtration method is that the water is well oxygenated on its return to the pond. This happens most naturally and most easily through a waterfall or a stream.

Mechanical Pond Filtration
Mechanical filters rid ponds of larger particles, waste, and sediment. There are many types of commercial filters designed to perform this task. Because they remove larger waste particles in the pond, and because they work so effectively, some need to be cleaned quite frequently.

Sedimentation Filters
Sedimentation filters allow particles that are heavier than water to drop to the bottom of the pond, where they are removed through a filter that is hooked up to a bottom drain. They only remove the larger particles, and have to be installed where they can be fed by gravity.

Skimmer Filters
There are two main types of skimmers - box skimmers and floating skimmers. Both types filter the water by removing floating debris and waste before it's had a chance to move to the bottom of the pond. The box skimmer is the predominant type of skimmer on the market today because it's easy to maintain.

Box style filters come with either vertical or horizontal skimmer mats. Aquascape pioneered the horizontal filter mats, which prove to be the most effective, while providing the least amount of maintenance. In order to test the differences between them, we installed both types and gathered all of our field experience. We also considered comments from our customers who installed the two styles, and have listed them below.

Vertical Filter Mats
The vertical filter mat was the hottest new design on the market in 1997. This mat was designed after the horizontal mat had established itself on the market, to signal the pond owner when the mat needed to be cleaned, and to provide easy access to the mat, by putting it in a pull out tray.
Design liabilities of the vertical filter mat:The tray that supports the filter mat becomes distorted and very difficult to push in or pull out, especially once the ground around the skimmer has settled, and the walls of the skimmer have bowed inward.After the mat has collected smaller particles, it gets heavy and loses its durability / shape.The vertical filter mat creates two chambers in the skimmer, one for the net and filter mat and the other for the pump. Once the mat accumulates some waste material, the water flows through it so slowly that is creates a false water level in the pump chamber, exposing the submersible pump to air.The vertical matt design disallows an automatic water fill valve to be used effectively. Because the water level of the pump chamber fluctuates constantly, it's possible that the automatic fill valve will run continuously flooding the pond's edges.

Maintenance of the vertical filter mat: Frequent cleaning of the mat. Constant monitoring of the filter mat to make sure there is enough water in the pump chamber for the pump to operate properly.If an automatic water fill valve is installed, checking to make sure it's not running continuously.

Horizontal Filter Mats
The horizontal mat design was created in the field as the first professional pond skimmer. It's breezed through the test of time, showing why it's still the #1 selling skimmer on the market today. Now entering its 7th generation, the horizontal design is still standing at the top of the mountain, and here's why:

Design benefits of the horizontal filter mat:Allows water to pass evenly through the mat.Made of sturdy materials and evenly balanced on the support rack.Traps all smaller debris that passes through the net.Lays flat so there is no snagging or early wear and tear.Never clogs to the point of preventing water from passing through, so the pump chamber does not run dry.An automatic water fill valve can be used without the worry of excess water being introduced into the system.
Maintenance of the horizontal filter mat:Cleaning once a month if needed.May have to replace the mat every three years.

Field Testing
There are an abundance of skimmers being advertised, they all look great on paper, but how will they perform in the field? That's the question. When installing the vertical mat skimmer, we immediately noticed that the mat was creating a problem by blocking the flow of water to the pump. Before installing the automatic water fill valve, we determined that if the pump chamber behind the vertical filter mat was constantly low, then the auto fill valve would constantly run.
When considering skimmers, always try to find out if and how they've been field tested. Realistically speaking, what insurance does the homeowner, and therefore you, the installer have that this skimmer is going to stand the test of time, and be maintenance free as the manufacturer claims? Keep in mind, Aquascape Designs is still the only manufacturer that installs their filters on a daily basis. Field tested, field proven.

Filter Construction Methods and Materials
The major difference between filters has mostly to do with the way they're constructed. There are four common filter manufacturing techniques, including rotational molded plastic, fiberglass, blow molded plastic, and vacuum forming. All skimmers and BIOFALLS manufactured by Aquascape Designs are made of rotaional molded polythylene. We chose this material and method of construction after years of researching the pros and cons of all the available products. Rotational molding uses uniform distribution of plastic throughout the mold, which insures that the product will be extremely durable and not contain any weak points. It also has a certain degree of flexibility which allows the filter to expand and contract in the ground without cracking from the freeze / thaw cycles of the earth.

Biological Pond Filtration
Every conventional water gardening, Koi, or pond magazine that you read will advertise a dozen different kinds of filter media. The main purpose of filter media is to provide surface area where bacteria can grow and serve as your biological filter. While all will basically do the job, some do it better and simpler than others.
Bio BallsBio Balls are small plastic balls with different ridges and shapes that re purely used as bacterial surface area. The more sides and protrusions the bio balls have, the more surface area they have. While they do have the surface area that we require, they're also very costly.
BrushesBrushes usually hang down from a bracket or stem somewhere in the filter. They have large amounts of surface area to encourage bacteria growth, but they can only be used in a small percentage of filters. To adequately filter a pond of any size with only brush filters, the amount of brushes required may be unfeasible, while they're mainly intended to provide surface area for bacteria, they do an adequate job of removing medium to large size bacteria as well.
RibbonThe ribbon used as filtration material is very similar to the plastic straps that you sometimes find wrapped around boxes for packaging. These ribbons are lightweight, but don't have a large amount of surface area. Therefore, a large quantity of ribbons would be required to accomplish a large amount of filtration.

Foam
The main goal of foam is to remove small to medium sized waste particles. The vast amount of surface area also creates a good surface for bacteria. Because the pores in foam are small, they clog fairly quickly, and are less than conducive to large particles.
Ceramic MediaCeramic is one of the most expensive forms of filtration media on the market today. As its name implies, it's made of fired ceramic and contains many pores designed to create surface area for bacteria colonization. While it's a good form of media, the cost far outweighs the benefit.

Lava Rock
After all our years experimenting with different biological media, we've found, dollar for dollar, that lava rock is the best filter media on the market. Lava rock not only has numerous pores creating excellent breeding area for bacteria, but also acts as a mechanical filter by removing medium to large-sized waste particles as well. It's by far, the least expensive and most cost effective of all filter media.

Sterilizing Pond Filtration

Ultraviolet Filters
Ultraviolet clarifiers, sterilizers, and filters are accessories designed to control green water algae, which leads to pea soup colored pond water. This filtration is accomplished by passing water through a tube that houses an ultraviolet light bulb. The light kills the living microscopic particles in the water, but unfortunately, the UV filter also kills all beneficial bacteria and microorganisms it comes in contact with too.

Commonly Asked Questions
What effect does UV light have on pond water? Ultraviolet light damages the algae cells, preventing them from normally multiplying. It also alters the proteins on the surfaces of bacteria cells and other fine debris particles, encouraging them to flocculate into larger particles. The mechanical filters then remove these larger particles more easily. To be fully effective, a UV filter should be used in conjunction with a biological and mechanical filter.

Will UV control hair algae or string algae? No, they will not control hair algae or string algae. A UV filter does not affect anything that does not pass directly under the ultraviolet light. They also have no effect on fish and plant waste, even though some manufacturers claim they do.
Why does Aquascape Designs actively discourage the use of UV filtration? UV filters treat water with radiation to kill algae, but that radiation also kills beneficial bacteria. Would you rather treat your pond with bacteria and natural biological filtration, or with unnatural and ultimately harmful, radiation? We prefer to treat the pond naturally.

An ultraviolet filter is a very expensive item. Besides the initial expense, the bulbs in the filter need to be replaced every six months in order to be effective. These replacement bulbs are expensive all by themselves.

External Pond Filtration
External filters are probably the most talked about filters in the pond industry. They have a popular past, mostly because there were so few options at the time. Let's take a look at the mechanical and biological workings of the external filters available in our industry today.
External filters evolved from the swimming pool industry, where noise and camouflaged filters are inconsequential (people aren't expecting a natural look), and where maintenance is required because the water is chemically controlled and filtered. The external filter was designed for swimming pools where the chemicals are required for swimming safety.

Whether it was a sand filter or a diatomaceous earth filter, the word filter in the name encouraged pond hobbyists to retrofit pool filters for ponds, thinking they'd solve their daily maintenance problem. The fact of the matter is, a chemically controlled filter works poorly with a biological environment. Think about it for a minute...is the chemical filter designed to filter fish poop...is it designed to filter dead, decomposing lily leaves? Probably not? Instead it's designed to work with chlorine and other chemicals right?

The bottom line is ... pool installers don't use our biological filters to keep their pools clean, and we suggest you avoid using their chemical filters to clean your pond. Here are some other filters derived from the pool industry that you can easily find on the market.

Bubble Bead Filter
This external biological filter is a molded PVC canister that contains plastic beads. The water flows through the beads, and is then flushed back into the pond. A UV clarifier is sometimes used with this system. This has to be regularly back flushed for it to function properly. These types of filters are very large, expensive, and impossible to hide outside of a natural pond.

Sand Filter
This mechanical filtration system is used primarily in the pool industry. The filter acts like a net or filter cloth that allows the liquid to pass, but not the solids. It needs to be backwashed regularly for it to function properly because of fish waste and solid organics that build up in the sand. If it's not backwashed, then the waste will cure inside the sand, causing it to turn anaerobic and harden.

Vortex Filter
In this external filter, the water flows by gravity or forced pressure into a pump that's shaped like a cone. After reaching this cavity, the water is directed into a rotational spin. This forces solids to fall to the bottom of the filter, while suspended particles get caught in a strainer-like filter that must be periodically washed. The filtered water passes into a spray bar that leads back into the pond.

Canister Filters
These non-professional types of filters come in alls sizes, shapes, and styles. Generally, this type of filter is targeted toward do-it-yoursefers with a very limited budget. Ponds that have this filter are generally the smallest backyard ponds (around 200 to 1000 gallons). These filters clog easily and frequently and, quite frankly, are ugly to look at sitting next to the pond.

Filtration Problems to Avoid
Floating Skimmers
A few manufacturers are currently producing floating skimmers. They float on the pond's surface and are connected to the pump by a section of pipe. The pump re-circulates the water and draws any debris floating on the water surface. Debris is then caught in a sieve type container, which is only meant to handle small pieces of floating material. Floating skimmers are only effective in very small ponds, and because of their size and the sieve through which the water enters the pipe or pump, they must be entered frequently. It's not as easy, and it's certainly not leisurely or relaxing...it's work!

Pump Pre-filters
Pump pre-filters are made of foam that traps small particles of debris. They are usually attached directly to the pump, and connected to a fountain pipe that leads to a waterfall. As the foam filter becomes saturated with debris, there will be a constant noticeable decrease in the water volume, which will require frequent cleaning of the filter. Remember the previous problems? Well in this case, you're looking at the same problem with a different style of filter.
Submersible FiltersThis is a pre-filter for the pump, where the water is drawn down through the filter foam and pumped up to a fountain or other water feature. It mechanically clears the water by removing small particles of algae and organic debris. Biologically it cleans the water by removing ammonia caused by fish waste. Beneficial bacteria live in the filter and convert ammonia to harmless nitrates. These filters also require lots of maintenance to maintain the water flow to the waterfall or fountain.

Magnets
Magnets are a new item in the pond industry, what they claim to do is alter the magnetic fields of minerals in the water. The manufacturers claim that these minerals, if left unchecked, cause string algae in ponds and lime scale in an ultraviolet filter. Our team has tested the magnets and their presence has shown no noticeable changes in the water quality or algae levels. None!
Bottom DrainsThe only reason that we've included bottom drains in the water filtration section is that many filters rely solely on water that's circulated from the bottom of the pond. With older filtration systems, the water that was near the bottom contained everything that settled, including fish and plant waste. This contaminated water was then transferred into the filter system that was intended to eliminate wastes.

To use here at Aquascape Designs, bottom drains represent one of yesteryear's pond construction techniques. With modern pond filtration techniques, a bottom drain is not only unnecessary, but counterproductive. The rocks and gravel on the bottom of the pond are covered with billions of tiny bacterium that break these wastes down and convert them to useful plant fertilizers. When installing most bottom drains, a hole needs to be made in the lowest part of the water garden. If the seal around the bottom drain fails, all your water will drain out of your pond leaving your fish high and dry. The risks involved in bottom drain installations outweigh any potential benefits that they may have.

And in the end...
After learning about all the different filtration techniques, it still all boils down to one thing ... what's best for you to install? The greatest attribute that we bring to the table is that the filters you install from us have been thoroughly tested in the field. They are currently being installed by our very own construction crews, as well as thousands of other crews across America every single day of the week. They're tested and we know they work before you ever get your hands on them.

The content of the Pond & Water Garden Resources Website comes from the book Pond Builders Bible everything Aquascape Designs Does Revealed. Published by Aquascape Designs, Inc. / The Pond Guy Publications. Batavia, IL

Friday, September 7, 2007

Increase the Value of your Home Up to 50 percent.

From The Wall Street Journal

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB118730250545300227.html?mod=rss_most_popular_leisure_24_hours

Selling Houses by the Yard
Worried Owners Hope Landscaping Adds Value; Trucking In Mature Oaks
By JUNE FLETCHER

August 17, 2007;
Most homeowners know that replacing the roof or upgrading siding can enhance a house's curb appeal and boost its sales price. Now, as the housing market continues to weaken, some people are considering what the payback will be if they invest in things that appraisers routinely overlook: flowers, shrubs and trees.
Real-estate agents say a nicely landscaped property can have a pronounced effect on the asking price of a home, depending on the region and the condition of the neighbors' yards. Doreen Drew recently sold a house in Anthem, Ariz., that had sculpted hedges, a lush lawn and a backyard waterfall for $1.1 million, nearly twice the asking price of a similar home nearby with a plainer yard. Bill Good, a broker in Colorado Springs, Colo., says he just sold a house with newly planted mature bushes and fresh sod in the front yard for $1.225 million; previously it had languished on the market for more than a year at $1.175 million. In Palm Beach County, Fla., homes with colorful flowers and tall palms typically sell for 10% to 15% more than those without these features, according to agent Nancy Macaluso. That's why she'll often lug huge potted plants to the homes of clients whose greenery needs a boost. "It makes a difference," she says.

Kathleen Wolf, a researcher at the University of Washington in Seattle, recently reviewed several regional studies that used appraisals or sales data to analyze the impact of trees on single-family home prices. She found that, overall, a lot with trees adds about 7% to a home's price. Nearly 20% of buyers say they consider landscaping to be a "very important" factor in their decision to buy a house, according to a new study by the National Association of Realtors.

No Unanimity

Still, it isn't easy to establish the worth of a living thing. And home appraisers generally don't take green amenities into account. Ronald Napier, a Stickney, Ill., appraiser, says there's nothing on his assessment forms that addresses landscaping, and he rarely even mentions it in his comments unless a yard is completely torn up or plantings are unusually extensive. Elizabeth Sawyer, assessor for the town of South Portland, Maine, says her office never figures in landscaping when it values properties for tax purposes: "The worth may be impossible to prove."

Tom Barnhart, director of appraisals for Palm Beach County, Fla., uses a mass appraisal system to keep tabs on the more than 248,000 single-family properties in his area. His office assigns a certain dollar amount to the value of landscaping in individual neighborhoods -- there are 650 in his county -- and then applies that number to each house within the neighborhood. That means that homes whose owners have spent thousands on their landscaping are judged exactly the same as those with withering trees and skimpy shrubs. "We're using a broad brush here," Mr. Barnhart says.
Homeowners who need a professional opinion for insurance or tax purposes typically turn to an arborist or other landscape expert, as do insurance companies investigating claims. But even here, not all specialists are uniformly trained. And there's no unanimity of opinion or law as to how to judge the value of a plant. Some people use size, trunk diameter and condition to determine the value of a planting, while others figure the cost to replace it with the same or similar nursery specimen. Although a guide for appraising plants has been established by the Council of Tree and Landscape Appraisers, a consortium of industry groups, "there are no official standards that are published as such," says Russell Carlson, an arborist in Bear, Del.
Even professionals with years of field experience are sometimes confused, according to Logan Nelson, an arborist in Dane County, Wis. She says a fellow arborist once told her that he calculated the worth of a diseased ash tree by figuring what he would charge to treat it for five years and then remove it when it died (which he thought was likely) -- a method that isn't mentioned in the council's guidelines. Homeowners need to ask arborists what sort of experience they've had in appraising trees before hiring them, Ms. Nelson says.

Perplexing standards aren't the only problem. Three-year-old Horticultural Asset Management of Raleigh, N.C., also known as HMI (the company's motto is "Money Grows On Trees"), has found a niche assessing the worth of trees as they grow; it says sales have jumped 30% in the first six months of 2007 over the same period last year. For an average cost of $500, their appraisal of a yard notes the condition of each plant and what it will be worth in five years. Among their customers: Dan Sharp, an information-technology executive in Stamford, Conn., who's shopping for insurance for the more than 100 trees and shrubs in his acre-and-a-half yard. He's worried by forecasted spikes in hurricanes and nor'easters, which could wipe out the leafy canopy of ornamental cherries, Japanese maples and other foliage that he's been nurturing for decades. "Right now, I'm unprotected," he says. HMI recently assessed the plantings at $600,000.

Chris Pieper hired HMI to prepare a similar assessment, not for insurance purposes but as a marketing tool to highlight the $100,000 of dogwoods, gardenias and other ornamentals that he recently planted in his two-acre yard in Cary, N.C.; the property is on the market for $1.7 million. Mr. Pieper says he isn't a "plant person" -- he can't even identify most of the greenery in his own yard. Still, he felt mature trees and bushes would give his 10-year-old home a more "settled" look and an edge in a slow market. He says of potential buyers, "I think it will sway them."

Builders and developers are trying to sway buyers with beefed-up landscaping, too. Taylor Woodrow, the American division of Taylor Wimpey headquartered in Solihull, England, has raised its per-lot spending on landscaping in new subdivisions by 5% to 10% since 2005, according to Tom Spence, a vice president for land development for the company's Florida division. Mr. Spence says that he can't always build around existing trees -- in fact, in most of his projects he must remove all of them to satisfy building regulations. But whenever possible, he tries to move plantings to a nursery, keep them alive and then replant them once construction is complete.

Winthrop, a new 60-acre project in Riverview, is being built on what was once a cow pasture. Now it's being turned into an Old Florida-style landscape, complete with mature live oaks, pines and crape myrtles, plus a 30-acre wetland. (The community will eventually have 400 homes ranging from $300,000 to $500,000.) Greening the site will add $1 million to development costs, Mr. Spence says, but he estimates that each dollar spent on landscaping adds about five more to the price of the home. "People like a community to have an aged look," he says.
Tree Swipes House

Real "aged" landscaping has its drawbacks, however. A little over a year ago, Gina Congrave, a retired investment banker, bought a brand-new, $2.13 million home in Westport, Conn., that was built on the site of a house that had been torn down. Although the builder had cleared most of the half-acre lot, he left six towering pine trees that helped the new home blend into the existing neighborhood. Ms.Congrave admired the trees for a few months -- until a windstorm blew down several huge branches and one of them "swiped" her house. An arborist told her that her big trees had been held up by smaller ones when the lot was heavily wooded; now they were unsupported, and more vulnerable during storms.

Afraid that the trees might topple onto and damage her roof, Ms. Congrave spent $6,000 to have them removed. "That's a big chunk of change," she says. Since then, she's spent $80,000 to bring in more manageable 15- to 20-foot-tall arborvitae, hollies, pears and dogwoods to restore her yard's established look. (She made sure to have them planted far away from the house.)

Poorly maintained lots can also be as big a turnoff to buyers as bare ones, says Joy Brillante, an Austin, Texas, real-estate agent, even reducing the perceived value of the property. And upkeep isn't the only issue. Ms. Brillante recently represented a buyer who paid $249,000 for a home with a tangle of brush and trees. When the new owner trimmed them back, she discovered a lake view. If the seller had cleared out the yard, Ms. Brillante estimates that he might have gotten as much as $10,000 more for the house. "Nobody knew the view was there," she says.

For some people, the value of trees can't be measured in dollars and cents. Tab Bottoms, a businessman, and his wife, Leigh Bielenberg, a designer, have spent a total of $24,000 in legal fees and appraisal costs to protect a 200-year-old red oak, valued at $25,000, that towers over their yard in Atlanta. They've spent three years in an ultimately futile legal battle to get a developer to re-site the house he plans to build on the lot next door, so that construction won't hurt the tree. So far, the builder's bulldozers haven't shown up, but if the tree does die, the couple plan to move. It's old trees, rather than architecture, that make a property distinctive, says Mr. Bottoms. "Money can't replace them."

Write to June Fletcher at june.fletcher@wsj.com

Monday, March 12, 2007

Ecoblast vs Algaefix


EcoBlast is now officially registered as an algaecide but it works completely different than most treatments out there. Most algaecides like Algaefix do not break down easily and as a result stay in the water. What ends up happening to treatments like those that contain copper sulphate is that the residual copper stays in the water mostly in the decomposing muck and sediment and still remains in a harmful state and can cause long term damage to fish and plants. EcoBlast on the other hand is an oxidizer. Meaning that it oxidizes whatever it comes in contact with, similar to how hydrogen peroxide works. That means you can use EcoBlast to get rid of stains, molds,and whatever else you want cleaned. EcoBlast just happens to be good at killing string algae as well which is why we wanted EPA registration for it being an algaecide. EcoBlast is by far safer to use than most other products because it is used up very quickly. Basically once you see it stop "fizzing" its gone because it has already broken down into oxygen. However, you can still overdose. If you use a lot of it you will have a lot of algae die off. You still want to remove the dying algae so that it doesn't decompose in the bottom of the pond. Remember, when things are decomposing, bacteria are using a lot of oxygen and you can easily suffocate the fish. You want have to worry about the EcoBlast killing the fish just the result of all the dying algae.

SAB or Algaefix


AlgaeFix and SAB are two completely different treatments. The way SAB works is that it prevents the plants from taking up calcium in the water. Without the proper amount of calcium the cell walls of the plant start to break down and eventually the plant will die. Your lesser plants like algae are the first to go. However, if you consistantly overdose SAB your other plants may not look so good. Because of the way SAB works, it is not a quick fix. Generally it takes a good week before you start to see the best results. This is why I consider SAB more of a preventive treatment that when used regularly does a pretty good job in keeping string algae under control. If you wanted immediate action, thats when EcoBlast comes in handy. You use the EcoBlast for bad string algae outbreaks and for spot treatments and when thats done you use SAB to keep it from coming back. AlgaeFix, on the other hand is another beast in that it is considered an algaecide. AlgaeFix contains an active ingredient similar to copper sulphate which is an extremely potent algaecide. AlgaeFix does kill algae no doubt about that but it is also very easy to overdose and destroy your pond. When I use to work retail and even now I probably deal with at least 3-4 people a month that over did it and wiped out not only their plants but fish as well. What happens is that they overdose and all the algae starts to die. This massive die off causes the bacteria in your pond to go into overdrive and as a result use up all of the oxygen in the pond causing the fish to suffocate. I have seen this happen in a matter of 12 hours or so. This also happens because the customer doesn't want to be patient and starts mixing other algae type products. The big thing when it comes to educating your customers about algae is to teach them to be patient and try not to do any experimenting without knowing the consequences